OEM 2009 Dodge Durango Timing Chain

2009 Dodge Durango Timing Chain Parts and Q&A

• Q: How to Remove and Replace a Timing Chain on 2009 Dodge Durango?

  A: Raise the secondary chain tensioner piston slightly using a small amount of force so that its step is level with the tensioner body. Unlock the ratchet pawl by pulling it back against its spring through the access hole beside the tensioner, push the ratchet approximately 2 mm away from the tensioner body and snap Tensioner Pins 8514 into the hole at the front of the tensioner. Lift the vise gently to use the piston spring force and push the lock pin into place. Setup the main chain tensioner on top of the oil pump and drive bolts into the bottom two holes on the tensioner support, tightening the bolts to 28 Nm (250 in. lbs.). Fix the right side chain tensioner arm with a Torx bolt and fasten it to 28 Nm (250 in. lbs.). After that, align the left side chain guide and tighten its bolts to 28 Nm (250 in. lbs.). After that, put in the left side chain tensioner arm and Torx bolt, making sure the bolt is tightened to 28 Nm (250 in. lbs.) and then install the right side chain guide and secure each bolt with the same tightening force. Place both secondary chains onto the idler sprocket, so the lower openings display both of its plated links. Connection of the secondary timing chains should be held in place using Secondary Camshaft Chain Holder 8429. Guide the double plated section of the primary chain at 12 o'clock on the idler sprocket and the single plated link at 6 o'clock on the crankshaft sprocket with the timing reference. Drizzle engine oil on both the idler shaft and the bushings to lubricate. After doing so, time the idler sprocket moving along the counterbalance shaft drive gear before final seating. Join all three chains, the crankshaft and the idler sprocket and place the secondary chains through both the block and cylinder openings, tying them up with a rubber strap to keep the tension in place. Bring the timing mark on the idler sprocket gear into line with the timing mark on the counterbalance shaft drive gear and put the idler sprocket in place. Apply oil to the washer before you add the idler sprocket bolt and tighten the retaining bolt to 34 Nm (25 ft.lbs.). Turn the camshafts just a bit so you can put the sprockets in place and line up the "L" dot on the left sprocket with the top link on the chain and the "R" dot on the right sprocket with the bottom link on the chain. Do not over-oil the camshaft sprocket bolt, since this may cause excessive strength and failure. Unlock Secondary Camshaft Chain Holder 8429, take the sprockets apart and mount them on the camshafts. Do not tighten the sprocket bolts now. First, confirm that all plated links are lined up with the marks on every sprocket and that the "V6" mark on the camshaft sprockets is at 12 o'clock which means the plate between the left secondary chain tensioner and block is properly installed. Place both secondary chain tensioners and use a 28 Nm (250 in.lbs.) torque wrench to tighten their bolts, as not all bikes have these tensioners on both sides. Eliminate all locking pins from the tensioners without trying to manually extend the ratchet; doing so could over-tighten your chains. Install Adaptor Pins 8346 onto Spanner Wrench 6958 and tighten the left and right camshaft sprocket bolts each to 122 Nm (90 ft.lbs.). After making two full rotations, confirm that the timing marks are where they ought to be: the dot on the idler sprocket at 12 o'clock, the dot on the crankshaft sprocket at 6 o'clock and the red mark on the camshaft sprockets both at 12 o'clock, in addition to the balance shaft drive gear dot lined up with the idler sprocket dot. Pour engine oil over the three chains and measure the end play of the idler gear; it should fall between 0.10 - 0.25 mm (0.004 - 0.010 in.), so replace the idler if it does not fit the criteria. Attach the timing chain cover and crankshaft damper and then add the cylinder head covers, furnishing the threaded plug in the right cylinder head with a coating of sealant to block any leaks. Spray the access plug with Mopar Thread Sealant with Teflon, screw it into the right cylinder head and tighten to 81 Nm (60 ft. lbs.). Put the oil fill housing in place, connect the access plug on the left cylinder head and mount the power steering pump. After that, add the cooling fluid and link the negative battery cable together.