The first step is to use a trustworthy ridge reamer to clean up the top ridge in the bores, while still protecting the tops of each piston. Turn the
Crankshaft until every connecting rod is straight in the middle of its connected cylinder bore when you pull it out. Mark where the connecting rod and bearing caps go, using a permanent marker or scribe tool, so you don't damage the surfaces of the joints. Lift off the connecting rod cap, place Special Tool 8189 Connecting Rod Guides over the exposed connecting rod and pull each piston and rod out of the cylinder bore, making sure the crankshaft journals aren't scratched. When the bearing is removed, replace the bearing cap on the rod to shield the fractured spots. First, put the piston rings in and be sure to arrange the staggered gaps of the compression rings with the mated ends of the oil ring expanders as they should be applied to the rails. Put the stripped piston and rings into clean engine oil, put the ring compressor over the piston and use the special wrench to tighten until the ring positions stay the same. Line up the hole in the bearing's half with the one in the connecting rod, cover the bearing with clean engine oil and set the rods in place with Special Tools 8189 Connecting Rod Guides. On both cylinder sides, the piston with the arrow and "F" should stand in the front of the engine, with its connecting rod oil squirt hole facing the major thrust side of the block. Use the crankshaft to center the connecting rod journal where it belongs in the cylinder bore, add the rod and piston and swing the rod across the crankshaft journal. Use a hammer handle to press the piston down into the cylinder bore as you control the connecting rod's placement. After that, coat the rod bolts and bearing surface with engine oil, set the connecting rod into place and bolt it down securely to 27 Nm (20 ft. lbs.), plus turn it an extra 1/4 rotation.