Drive the car up on safety stands, disconnect the fluid line and place a shallow and wide pan beneath the transmission pan. Take out the bolts holding the side and front of the pan to the transmission, loosen those in the back and gently pull the front apart so the fluid starts to drain. Once you've emptied the pan and it's standing level, unscrew the rest of the bolts and lift the pan away from the transmission, dumping the rest of the fluid into the drain pan. Disconnect the main
Oil Filter (1) from the valve body and pump by removing its single screw, take off the filter and pour the fluid into the pan. Check the oil pump's oil filter seal; if it is damaged or not fully fitted, remove it, but if it is in good shape, you can reuse it. If you decide to replace the cooler return filter (2), use tool 8321 to unscrew it from the transmission and get rid of the used transmission fluid and filters the right way. Look at both the pan and magnet below and see if there is any sign of excess metal. A little metal on the clutch surfaces is acceptable apart from during times of slipping or delay in shifting. Wipe the pan and magnet with a suitable solvent and take off the sealant from the case and pan with a gasket scraper. During installation, place the primary oil filter seal against the oil pump's body instead of on its neck. Should a seal be needed, fit a new original equipment (Oe) primary oil filter seal inside the oil pump inlet bore using Installer 6960 or a similar tool. Place the replacement filter onto the valve body and insert it into the oil pump, next screw it into position and fasten it by turning it 4.5 Nm (40 in. lbs). If you need to, put a fresh cooler return filter onto the transmission and tighten it to 9.5 Nm (84 in. lbs.). On the transmission, put a layer of Rtv sealant along the case seal, fit the pan onto the transmission, attach the bolts and tighten each to 12 Nm (105 in. lbs.) rotational force. First, lower the vehicle and add the Mopar(R) Atf +4 to the transmission.