Its best to start by removing the wheel and tire assembly then take out the
Brake Drum to repair and service the wheel cylinder. Remove the line from the wheel cylinder brake, then remove the springs and move the shoes aside from their contact with the cylinder rods. After that, take out the cylinder attaching bolts and lift the cylinder off the support plate. Remove the push rods and boots, push the
Pistons and cups through the cylinder and expander out of the silencer before you remove the bleed screw. Since you don't want lint left on the cylinder or pistons, use clean fluid or a brake cleaner and dry the parts with a blast of compressed air. Seeing some light and dark areas of discoloration in the bore is normal and it won't harm operation, but if the bore is pitted, scored or heavily corroded, the cylinder must be changed. A little crocus cloth can be used to clean the bore. Make sure the pistons are smooth and clean from scratches or marks and change those that are damaged. Throw out the piston cups and the spring and expander since they don't last, but keep the original dust boots if they're still intact. When assembling, the wheel cylinder bore, pistons, piston cups and spring and expander should be treated with clean brake fluid. The first movable cup goes into the cylinder, sitting within the triangular space formed by the lips of the first piston. After that, set up the spring and expander, then both the remaining piston cup and piston. Place the boots over both ends of the cylinder, put in the push rods and install the cylinder bleed screw afterward. When installing the elastomeric bushing, apply a sealant around the mounting surface, then bolt the cylinder in place and tighten all the bolts to 20 Nm (15 ft. lbs.). Link the
Brake Line to the cylinder, assemble the brake return spring, attach the brake drum next, add the wheel and tire and bleed the base brake system last.