Disconnect the negative cable from the battery as the first step and afterward, take out both the cylinder heads and the
Oil Pan. Should a reamer be required, first use it to smooth the ridge on the cylinder wall that fits the piston top, then remove the pistons while covering the tops. With the
Crankshaft turned, center each connecting rod in its bore then take out the piston and connecting rod assembly from the top of the block. Check the connecting rods and their caps to tell which cylinder they were coming from and mark them if necessary. Take off the cap from the connecting rod and put on bolt protectors for each connecting rod bolt. Make sure the crankshaft journals remain free from marks, carefully take each piston and rod assembly from the cylinder bore and then apply the bearing cap to the mating rod once removed. Before you use a ring compressor, stagger the gaps between compression rings, insert the oil ring into its groove and lubricate the piston and rings with clean engine oil. Put the upper bearing on the connecting rod, add lubrication and afterwards fit the rod bolt protectors. You should see an "F" mark close to the piston pin on both pistons and you should line it up so that the connecting rod oil squirt hole is pointing towards the larger flat section of the engine block. Spin the crank until you see the connecting rod journal aligned with the center of the bore, subtly lower the rod and piston set into the cylinder and carefully drop the rods over the journals on the crankshaft. Line up the connecting rod and slowly tap the piston down into the cylinder bore with a hammer handle. Attach the lower bearing shell and the cap for the connecting rod and then put nuts on the oiled rings, tightening them to 54 Nm (40 ft. lbs.) and turning another quarter turn. Do the same with the rest of the installations and then put in the cylinder heads and oil pan. Once that is done, add the correct oil to the engine crankcase and put the negative cable back onto the battery terminal.