OEM 2008 Dodge Dakota Timing Chain

2008 Dodge Dakota Timing Chain Parts and Q&A

• Q: How to Remove and Replace a Timing Chain on 2008 Dodge Dakota?

  A: Pull the piston of the secondary chain tensioner by hand until the piston step is level with the tensioner body. Open the ratchet pawl by pulling it back against spring force through the access hole on the side, then slide the ratchet device away from the tensioner by about 2 mm and fix new Tensioner Pins 8514 into the hole on the tensioner's front. Gently open the vise as you fit the piston spring over the lock pin. Adjust the main chain tensioner so it is above the oil pump, then bolton the two lower holes on the tensioner bracket until they reach 28 Nm (250 in. lbs.). Fit the right side chain tensioner arm with a Torx screw, make sure it is secured to 28 Nm (250 in. lbs.) and follow this by attaching the left side chain guide with its bolts tightened to the same setting. Following this, put in the left side chain tensioner arm secured with the bolt tightened to 28 Nm (250 in. lbs.) and place the right side chain guide with its bolts tightened to 28 Nm (250 in. lbs.). Connect the secondary drives to the idler sprocket, so both plated links are clearly visible in the openings beneath the idler gear. To secure the secondary timing chains, use Secondary Camshaft Chain Holder 8429. Adjust the primary chain, so that the center of the chain's double-plated links aligns with the mark at 12 o'clock on the idler sprocket and the single plated link aligns with the mark at 6 o'clock on the crankshaft sprocket. Apply clean engine oil to the idler shaft and bushings and make sure the idler sprocket is timed to the counterbalance shaft drive gear before you fully seat it. Put the chains, crankshaft sprocket and idler sprocket together and set them up so both secondary chains move through the block and cylinder head, then attach everything with an elastic strap. After that, connect the timing marks on both gears and gently push the idler sprocket down. First, grease the washer and then bend the retaining bolt to 34 Nm (25 ft.lbs.) after installing the idler sprocket bolt. Rotate the camshafts a little to match the left camshaft's "L" dot to the plated link on the chain and the right camshaft's "R" dot to the same link. Making sure excess oil is removed from the camshaft sprocket bolt will keep it from getting over-torqued and failing. Once you remove Secondary Camshaft Chain Holder 8429, join both sprockets to the camshafts such that all plated links are along the same guide marks on all sprockets and the "V6" marks on camshaft sprockets top the 12 o'clock line. Put in both toleration bolts for the secondary chain and tighten them to 28 Nm (250 in.lbs.). Remember that the left and right secondary chain tensioners are not common. Take the pins out of the inside of the tensioners and remember not to manually release the ratchets or else you could unconsciously tighten the chains too much. Attach Adaptor Pins 8346 to Spanner Wrench 6958 and tighten the left and right camshaft sprocket bolts each to 122 Nm (90 ft.lbs.). Complete two engine turns, followed by checking that the primary chain idler sprocket dot points to 12 o'clock, the primary chain crankshaft sprocket dot faces 6 o'clock, the secondary chain camshaft sprockets have their V6 marks at 12 o'clock and the balance shaft drive gear dot is lined up with the idler sprocket gear dot. Give each chain in the transmission a coat of engine oil and measure the end play of the idler gear; ensure it is between 0.10 and 0.25 mm (0.004 - 0.010 in.) or change the idler gear. First, fit the timing chain cover and crankshaft damper, then the cylinder head covers, taking care to coat the big threaded access plug on the right cylinder head with Mopar Thread Sealant with Teflon and tighten it to 81 Nm (60 ft. lbs.) before installation. Place the oil fill housing in position, attach the access plug on the left cylinder head and install the power steering pump. Lastly, add coolant and hook up the negative cable to the battery.