OEM 2008 Jeep Commander Timing Chain

2008 Jeep Commander Timing Chain Parts and Q&A

• Q: How to Remove and Replace a Timing Chain on 2008 Jeep Commander?

  A: When you are ready to remove and change the timing chain, press the secondary chain tensioner piston, continue squeezing until the piston step is flush with the tensioner body and pull back on the ratchet pawl from the access hole on the tensioner's side. While the pawl stays out of the gear wheel, move the ratchet backwards about 2 mm and set Tensioner Pins 8514 into the hole at the front of the tensioner. Next, very slowly open the vise so the piston transfers its spring force to the lock pin. Place the primary chain tensioner just up from the oil pump and put two bolts into the holes at the lower end of the tensioner bracket, tightening them to 28 Nm (250 in.lbs.). Use a Torx bolt to attach the right side chain tensioner arm, but leave it loose for now. Then secure your left chain guide with the right bolts tightened to 28 Nm (250 in. lbs.). After that, insert the chain tensioner arm, attach the Torx bolt and fix it to 28 Nm (250 in. lbs.). Then, secure the chain guide on the right side and also tighten the bolts to 28 Nm (250 in. lbs.). Secure the two secondary chains to the idler sprocket such that their plated links can be seen from the openings at the bottom, then use Secondary Camshaft Chain Holder 8429 to keep the chains in place. So that Belt #1 lays flat, line up the double links with the 12 o'clock mark on the idler sprocket, the single plated link with the 6 o'clock mark on the crankshaft sprocket, lubricate the idler shaft and bushings with clean engine oil and set the idler sprocket to the counterbalance shaft drive gear before fully seating it. Assemble and add in the chains, crankshaft sprocket and idler sprocket together, then pass both secondary chains through holes in the block and head and use an elastic strap to keep tension on them. Make sure the timing marks on the idler sprocket gear and the counterbalance drive gear are lined up, put oil on the washer and tighten the retaining bolt to 34 Nm (25 ft.lbs.) Move the camshafts slightly so you can set the L and R dots on each sprocket to the corresponding chain links and remember to clean excess oil from both sprocket bolts so you don't go too far with the torque. With Secondary Camshaft Chain Holder 8429 removed, link both sprockets to their camshafts for now without tightening the bolts and check the position of the plated links against the marks on every sprocket. Fit each secondary chain tensioner, tighten the bolts till they reach 28 Nm (250 in.lbs.) and then remove the locking pins from the tensioners. Remember not to manually pull on the ratchet or the chains might over-tension. Tighten both left and right camshaft sprocket bolts with Spanner Wrench 6958 and Adaptor Pins 8346 to 122 Nm (90 ft.lbs.). Rotate the engine two complete revolutions so that the primary chain idler sprocket is at 12 o'clock, the primary chain crankshaft sprocket is at 6 o'clock, the secondary chain camshaft sprockets show "V6" at 12 o'clock and the balance shaft drive gear is with the idler sprocket gear dot. Rub engine oil along all three chains, verify the end play of the idler gear is within 0.10 - 0.25 mm (0.004 - 0.010 in.) and change it if it falls outside the stated measurements. Install the timing chain cover and crankshaft damper, next put on the cylinder head covers and coat the large threaded access plug with Mopar Thread Sealant with Teflon before putting it into the right cylinder and tightening it to 81 Nm (60 ft. lbs.). Add the oil fill housing, secure the access plug under the left cylinder head and the power steering pump, next fill the cooling system and connect the negative battery cable.