First, raise your vehicle using either a hoist or jack stands and then take off the wheel and tire. Then, remove both the cotter pin, nut lock and spring washer from the stub axle and hub nut. Either let a helper brake the wheel to stop the hub or put the hand brake on so the hub is held still while you remove the hub nut. Make sure to remove the disc
Brake Caliper and adapter assembly from the knuckle and suspend it so it doesn't stress the brake hose. Take off the nut on the
Tie Rod End stud with a wrench, remove the tie rod end and use the Remover, Special Tool C-389 to extract the end. Should the vehicle be fitted with antilock brakes, you need to remove the front wheel
Speed Sensor from the steering knuckle. Loosen the two bolts that hold the steering knuckle to the strut clevis bracket, push the knuckle outwards and pull out the top of the driveshaft stub axle from the hub and bearing, allowing the driveshaft to hang straight down. Hold the ball joint stud with a hex wrench, remove the ball joint nut, then flex Remover, Special Tool C-4150A, around the ball joint stud to release it from the steering knuckle. After that, take the steering knuckle out of the vehicle. If you have to change the hub and bearing, first remove the four bolts that fix them to the knuckle. If installing the hub and bearing, set them in the steering knuckle so they are exactly lined up, add all four bolts and tighten them to 65 Nm (45 ft. lbs.). Before installing the knuckle on the ball joint stud, clean the area where they come together. Put the knuckle on the stud of the old ball joint, then screw in the new knuckle nut from the steering side. Apply a tightening torque of 108 Nm (80 ft. lbs.) by rotating a crowsfoot wrench on a torque wrench. Slide the stub axle onto the drive shaft and insert it into the hub and bearing. Hold the steering knuckle to strut assembly assembly together or use a suitable tool to prevent bolts from loosening as you install the shaft. Afterwards, bolt the steering knuckle to the strut clevis on the damper until it is tight, with 81 Nm (60 ft. lbs.) applied plus a 90° extra turn. Put the tie rod end on the knuckle steering arm, begin turning on the nut and tighten it to a final torque of 75 Nm (55 ft. lbs.), using a crowfoot and a torque wrench. Should your car have antilock brakes, set the wheel speed sensor in place and use a torque wrench to tighten the bolt to 7 Nm (60 inch lbs.). Bolt the brake rotor in place at the hub and bearing, add the disc brake caliper and connector and secure the two with adapter bolts that are tightened to 169 Nm (126 ft. lbs.). Gently pry out any attached debris on the outer C/V joint stub axle threads, put the washer and hub nut on, then tighten the hub nut to 244 Nm (180 ft. lbs.) while a helper stops the vehicle using the brakes. Insert the spring wave washer, put in the hub nut lock, replace the cotter pin and wrap its prongs around the hub nut lock tightly. Place the wheel and tire on the vehicle and torque only half the amount the book says to the nuts, then restart the process to the full value of 135 Nm (100 ft. lbs.). After that, drive the car back up and properly set the front wheel alignment camber and toe.