You should start by lifting the car and then first remove the front tire and wheel assemblies. Loosen the upper retainer/nut from one stabilizer bar link and turn the link bolt with a wrench to let it go, then disconnect the stabilizer bar cushion retainer bolts and the bar with cushions. Remove the clamp at every ball joint stud and take care not to strain the knuckle upward, because it could pull the inner C/V joint off the driveshaft. Remove each ball joint stud from the
Steering Knuckle using the same technique on the lower
Control Arm. Screwdriver the two screws out of the crossmember near the front bumper, so the cooler can be pulled away and out of the way. Ensure the power steering gear won't fall while you lower the crossmember by holding it with wire or cord. Next, loosen the four bolts joining the gear to the front crossmember. Disconnect the shield fasteners and the splash shield using a screwdriver, then remove the pencil strut in the right front corner of the crossmember and body and detach the engine torque strut. Use a marker to outline the place of the crossmember onto the car's body, raise the crossmember on the transmission jack and add support underneath it. Unscrew the two side bolts fastening the crossmember to the frame rails and leave the bolts on the plates inside, so the lower control arm does not move. Take out the front pivot bolt to let go of each lower control arm and lower the front suspension crossmember. For installation, secure the lower control arms to the front suspension crossmember and set the pivot bolts with only gentle force for now. Lift the crossmember and lower control arms so that they touch the holes where they will be fitted, side-guiding the power steering gear into the required area. Put the bolts for the two rear crossmember mounts into the tapping plates first, then install and loosely tighten the front mounting bolts to around 2 N.m (20 in.lbs.). Hit the crossmember with the hammer along the pre-drawn lines and afterward tighten all bolts as directed: 150 ft.lbs. for the rear bolts and 105 ft.lbs. for the front bolts. Friction-weld the lower control arm as directed, securely tighten the lower pivot bolts to 163 N.m (120 ft.lbs.), connect the steering gear to the crossmember and tighten all four bolts onto it to 61 N.m (45 ft.lbs.). Take out the wire or cord hanging the power steering gear, replace the screws on the cooler and insert both ball joint studs into the steering knuckle. Replace the existing ball joint stud with a new pinch bolt and nut and then tighten the nut to 95 N.m (70 ft.lbs.). Mount the engine torque strut onto the block using the mounting bolts, set them up so they align, then mount the washer to the end of the torque strut bolt. Reconnect the pencil strut, secure it with bolts tightened to 58 N.m (43 ft.lbs.) and then put on the drive-belt splash shield and fasten it into place. With the curve on the outboard parts of the stabilizer bar facing downward and the slits in each cushion toward the front, fit the cushion retainers and partly secure the bolts. Replace both stabilizer bar links on the vehicles and before fully tightening the bolts, start by adding the bushings from the bottom. Replace the tire and wheel assemblies and tighten the wheel nuts to 135 N.m (100 ft.lbs.). After that, you can lower the vehicle. Apply 23 N.m (200 in.lbs.) of tightness to each stabilizer bar link and 34 N.m (300 in.lbs.) to the cushion retainer bolts and afterward, set front wheel alignment.