You should disconnect the battery negative cable, remove the oil dipstick and then the air inlet duct to remove the oil pan. Take out the engine controller from the cowl by unbolting it, but keep it attached and ensure it's not hanging loose. Remove next the fasteners and the engine cover at the top of the cooling fan shroud and support the car on a hoist before pouring out the engine oil. Unhook the transmission oil cooler lines from the oil pan clip, take the engine to transmission braces off, remove the starter motor and take the transmission inspection cover off. After removing the left and right engine mount nuts, take out the oil pan fasteners and lift off the oil pan, since the crankshaft may prevent you from getting it out without rotating it to clear the #1&2 journal counterweight. To help with installation, cut the heads off of four 5/16 x 1 1/2 inch bolts and drill slots up their length. Slide the dowels into the cylinder block, put a bit of Mopar Silicone Rubber Adhesive Sealant or similar on the inside corner of the cap and the block and then move the gasket over the dowels and onto the block. Carefully place the oil pan on the dowels and onto the gasket, attach the oil pan bolts and secure them at 24 Nm (215 in. lbs.). After removing the dowels, snap in the oil pan and tighten the bolts to 24 Nm; next, place in the oil pan drain plug and tighten it to 34 Nm. With the engine lowered, put the engine mount insulator brackets over the appropriate bolts and screw on the nuts, tightening to 102 Nm (75 ft. lbs.). Then, install the transmission inspection cover, starter motor and engine to the transmission support brackets. Bring the lines of the transmission oil cooler back to the mounting clips, give the vehicle a lower position, fit the upper cooling fan shroud, connect the controller to the cowling, fit the air feed pipe for the air cleaner and the oil dipstick. Pour engine oil into the crankcase, reattach the battery negative cable, begin driving and examine the car for signs of leaks.