OEM Dodge Ram 2500 Van Crankshaft

Crank Shaft
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2 Crankshafts found

  • Dodge Ram 2500 Van Crankshaft - R4790759AB
    Dodge Ram 2500 Van Crankshaft Diagram - R4790759AB
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    Product Specifications
    • Other Name: Crankshft; Crankshaft And Key
    • Warranty: This genuine part is guaranteed by Mopar's factory warranty.
    Fits the following Vehicles:
    • 1999-2003 Dodge Ram 2500 Van | Base | 8 Cyl 5.9 L GAS
  • Dodge Ram 2500 Van Crankshaft - 53020601
    Dodge Ram 2500 Van Crankshaft Diagram - 53020601
    View related parts
    Product Specifications
    • Other Name: Crankshft
    • Replaces: 4323784
    • Warranty: This genuine part is guaranteed by Mopar's factory warranty.
    Fits the following Vehicles:
    • 2001 Dodge Ram 2500 Van | Base | 6 Cyl 3.9 L GAS

Dodge Ram 2500 Van Crankshaft

Choose OEM Crankshaft that meet Dodge factory standards. Dodge designs and tests every component for precision and durability. Each Crankshaft follows strict manufacturing steps to lock in quality and fit. If your Dodge Ram 2500 Van matters to you, OEM parts make the smart choice. You'll get the exact look, feel, and performance you expect. Shop genuine Ram 2500 Van parts at the highly competitive prices online. Enjoy a manufacturer's warranty, a hassle-free return policy, and rapid delivery. No more guesswork with off brands. Get genuine parts with exact fit and true factory performance. Shop with confidence today at JeepPartsDeal.com.

Dodge Ram 2500 Van Crankshaft Parts and Q&A

  • Q: How is a crankshaft with undersize journals identified and what are the steps for replacing it on Dodge Ram 2500 Van?
    A:
    An undersize journal crankshaft will be marked with 1/4 inch letters on the No.8 crankshaft counterweight. Examples include R2 for a 0.025 mm (0.001 inch) undersize No.2 rod journal, M4 for a 0.025 mm (0.001 inch) undersize No.4 main journal and R3 M2 for undersize No.3 rod journal and No.2 main journal. When a crankshaft is being replaced, it is important to also change all main and connecting rod bearings with new bearings so no special fitting is needed. Before you lift the crankshaft, remove the oil pan and pump from the rear main bearing cap, then take out the bearing caps and bearings one at a time. Take the oil seals from the rear and front of the crankshaft out. Check the connecting rod and main journals for severe wear, taper or scoring. Make sure the maximum taper permitted is 0.025 mm (0.001 inch) and that journal grinding on these parts is not greater than 0.305 mm (0.012 inch) from their standard diameter, not including the thrust faces of the No.2 main bearing or notching crank pin or bearing fillets. Elbow grease and remove shards from each oil hole, while thoroughly clearing out all oil passages to allow final polishing in the direction the engine rotates. Following this, get rid of any residue from Loctite 518 and sealant from the cylinder block and rear cap mating surface and then apply a Loctite drop and put the rear cap into place. Prior to installing, clean both sides of the cylinder block rear cap and ensure there is no rubbish in the seal groove. Oil the new upper seal lips, put the new rear oil seal in sideways with the white paint facing the engine and seat the crankshaft into the block. Run it lightly with oil and install the rear oil seal into the bearing cap, be sure to position the white paint towards the rear of the gearbox. Remove the bearing cap from the article, put 5 mm (0.20 inches) of Loctite 518 on both sides of the bearing cap, keep the seal away from the compound and immediately reattach the cap to the cylinder block. Position the bearing cap with the cap slot, alignment dowel and cap bolts so that, after assembly, any excess material is left and you hit the rear cap only two times for proper engagement. Clean and apply oil to every cap bolt, install all sets of bearing caps and use an alternating pattern to tighten each cap bolt to 115 Nm (85 ft. lbs.) torque. Apply the oil pump and use Mopar Silicone Rubber Adhesive Sealant at the bearing cap seal to prevent oil leaks from the joint. Be sure to apply enough sealant that it squeezes out just a little and after that, wipe the oil pan seal ring clean of any extra sealant. Next, set the front crankshaft oil seal and immediately place the oil pan in.
  • Q: How to remove and install the crankshaft while the engine is on Dodge Ram 2500 Van?
    A:
    You should remove the transmission, then lift away the oil pan and oil pump from the rear main bearing cap to take out the crankshaft in the vehicle. Take out the damper for vibration and the cover of the timing chain after that. Loose the rod bearing caps and bearings and make sure the crankshaft is kept from falling and becoming damaged by supporting it while you remove them. Place a jack under the crankshaft, remove each main bearing cap isme by itself and then guide the crankshaft slowly from the block. Leave the front and rear crankshaft oil seals on the bench. Prior to installing the rear cap, first clean the gasket maker residue and sealant from the gasket area on the block and rear cap, then use Mopar Gasket Maker. Place a little oil on the upper seal lips before putting in the new upper rear bearing oil seal such that the white splash is directed toward the area behind the engine. Slide the crankshaft into the cylinder block, then moisten the new lower seal lips with a little oil and set the new lower rear bearing oil seal into the bearing cap with the side with white paint pointing backward. Apply 5 mm of Mopar Gasket Maker on both sides of the rear main bearing cap, attach the cap to the cylinder block right after the sealant is applied, line up the cap with the slot, dowel and bolts and don't remove any extra sealant after attaching the cap. Oil and wipe all bearing cap bolts before you fit all the main bearing caps and alternately tighten them to 115 Nm at each point. Install again the oil pump, timing chain cover and vibration damper. Set the connecting rods on the crankshaft, fit the rod bearing caps and tighten their nuts to 61 Nm. When building, use some Mopar Silicone Rubber Adhesive Sealant at the bearing cap to block the joint, create a hollow ring, but ensure some sealant appears outside the joint so you can clean it immediately. Lastly, add the front crankshaft seal and oil pan and when the transmission was out, you should put it back in.

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