When installing a brake master cylinder manually, first check that all proportioning valves are in their proper cylinder ports and tightened to 30 Nm (22 ft. lbs.). Before you put the brake master cylinder in, you have to ensure it is bled. Crack the
Brake Line at the master cylinder and clean the booster face where the master cylinder seal touches; do not put cleaner or debris into the booster. A new vacuum O-ring seal should be added to the master cylinder flange; if the old seal still shows, take off the old seal and fit the new one in its place. If problems occur while inserting the push rod, make sure the master cylinder push rod is lined up correctly with the booster push rod. Lay the master cylinder injection holes on the mounting studs on the
Brake Booster and press it flush with the booster housing until it touches. Attach two new master cylinder screws, screwing them in until the torque is 25 Nm (18 ft. lbs.). If your vehicle has a manual transaxle and a new reservoir, cut the center of the "V" groove on the clutch actuator to open the hydraulic clutch port and throw away the removed plug. Slide the clutch actuator hose over the reservoir port and fix it in place with a hose clamp. Attach the rear brake tubes to the proportioning valves on the master cylinder, securing them with 20 Nm (177 in. lbs.); then attach the two front brake tubes to the master cylinder with the same amount of torque. Join the wiring harness to both the brake fluid level switch and the negative
Battery Cable. Filling the reservoir of the master cylinder to the proper point ensures the brakes are strong enough for driving; otherwise, the system must be bled and checked for any leaks. Prepare for a driving test to check the brakes on the vehicle.