To fix the steering knuckle in place, slide the hub section over the halfshaft outer C/V joint's splines. Put the knuckle onto the ball joint stud, lining up the hole in the knuckle boss with the groove on the ball joint. Verify that a new ball joint stud, pinch bolt and nut are used. Tighten the nut to a torque of 82 Nm (60 ft. lbs.) When fitting the strut assembly to the knuckle with these serrated and fixed bolts, hold the knuckle and tighten the nuts onto the bolts. Line up the lower strut part with the top of the knuckle, check that the holes are aligned and put in the two connecting bolts. As you put the nuts onto the bolts, tighten them to 110 Nm (81 ft. lbs.) keeping your hands on the bolts. First, put the outer tie rod ball stud into the knuckle arm, thread the tie rod end-to-knuckle nut over the stud, secure it with 132 Nm (97 ft. lbs.) of force and hold the stud in place with a wrench. Set the wheel speed sensor head into the knuckle, hold it securely with the screw tightened to 12 Nm (106 in. lbs.) and attach the clip for the wheel speed sensor wire to its bracket. Add the brake rotor, disc
Brake Caliper and adapter to your assembly before proceeding. Rinse off the stub shaft threads and fit the washer and hub nut onto the end of the stub shaft. When the helper brakes to stop the hub rotation, use an torque wrench to tighten the hub nut to 244 Nm (180 ft. lbs.). Attach the spring washer and the hub nut lock to the hub nut and stub shaft, insert the new cotter pin into the hub lock, then wrap the cotter pin's prongs tightly over the nut lock. Set the wheel and tire onto the hub and tighten the wheel nut with a torque wrench to 135 Nm (100 ft. lbs.) and bring the vehicle back to the ground. If the original knuckle goes back on the vehicle, chances are wheel alignment won't be necessary thanks to Net-Build, but check and do it if required.