OEM 2006 Chrysler PT Cruiser Crankshaft

2006 Chrysler PT Cruiser Crankshaft Parts and Q&A

• Q: How to Remove and Install a Crankshaft in an Engine on 2006 Chrysler PT Cruiser?

  A: It is important to remove the engine from the vehicle first, then take off the transaxle after the engine. After that, take out the drive plate/flex plate and the crankshaft rear oil seal (1). Mount the engine on the correct stand, allow all the oil to drain and get rid of the oil filter. Afterwards, get rid of the crankshaft vibration damper, engine mount support bracket, front timing cover, rear timing cover, the timing belts and the timing belt covers, as well as the oil pan (3), pick-up tube, crankshaft sprocket, oil pump, balance shafts and housing, plus the crankshaft position sensor. If any of these parts needs replacement, first take out the cylinder head. Identify the number of the cylinder on each connecting rod cap using a permanent marker, rather than creating a mark through number stamping or punching. Remove each connecting rod bolt and cap, making sure you do not damage the fracture rod zone and not using the connecting rod bolts more than once. Remove every bed plate bolt from the engine block and hit the bedplate with soft taps along the dowel pin positions in the engine block to remove it gently. Remove the crankshaft from the cylinder block using extra care and take the target ring mounting screws out before you remove the target ring from the crank. It is important to ensure the crankshaft journals are not overly worn or out of shape, that taper is not much more than 0.025 mm (0.001 inch) and that the maximum allowable grinding is 0.305 mm (0.012 inch) measured from the standard diameter-without grinding the thrust side of No. 3 main bearing and avoiding nicking the crank pin or bearing fillets. After finishing with the grinder, shape the edges of the crankshaft oil holes and clean the passages to make certain the final buffing on the cast iron part follows the engine's usual rotation. During installation, confirm that the oil hole and groove in the upper thrust bearing half, marked with an H, are fitted to the engine side and that the lower thrust bearing half, unmarked, is fitted to the casing. Put the main bearing upper shells with a lubrication groove and an oil hole in the engine block and check that the holes are lined up. Make certain that oil does not get on the bed plate mating surface; this will trouble the sealer's ability to seal. If the crankshaft is done as machine work, it should be balanced as an assembly with the target ring fitted. Apply Mopar Brake Parts cleaner to the crankshaft and target ring, then dry with compressed air to guarantee that both surfaces and holes are clean. Install new screws for the target ring in the #1 location and tighten them by hand first. Finish by using a torx T30 bit to tighten all screws to 13 Nm (110 inch lbs.) while following the proper sequence. Before you put the crankshaft into the block, oil the bearings and journals and use only the correct anaerobic sealer on the bed plate. Add a 1.5 to 2.0 mm (0.059 to 0.078 inch) bead of Mopar Bed Plate Sealant to the bed plate, fit the lower main bearings into the main bearing cap/bed plate, pushing the tabs firmly in place and place the main bearing/bed plate into the engine block above. Put a light coat of clean engine oil on the main bearing cap/bed plate bolts, then install them into the blocks 11, 17 and 20. Do not tighten them; they just need to be in place until the bed plate touches the block. To align the thrust bearings properly, first have the number 4 piston reach Tdc, then slide the crankshaft backward to its maximum point of travel, then return it forward to its limit before inserting an appropriate tool behind the cylinder block and the rear crankshaft changer to ensure it is well forward. Screw in bolts (1-10) one at a time to 41 Nm (30 ft. lbs.), bind the wrench to the wedge and then repeat the process. Orient the main bearing bed plate for the main shaft with bolts (11-20) to the engine block. Next, apply 28 Nm (250 inch lbs.) to each of those bolts in sequence, torque bolts (1-10) to 75 Nm (55 ft. lbs.) in order, then reapply 28 Nm (250 inch lbs.) to the bolts (11-20). After fitting the main bearing bed plate, verify that the crankshaft turning torque stays below 5.6 Nm (50 inch lbs.) and measure crankshaft end play. Install both connecting rod bearings and caps and never use the connecting rod bolts again. Then, tighten them to 27 Nm (20 ft. lbs.) plus 1/4 turn. Put in the balance shafts and housing assembly, the oil pump and oil pump pick-up tube, tightening the fastener to 23 Nm (200 inch lbs.). Set the oil pan (3), the crankshaft position sensor and the cylinder head into place, if needed. Replace the rear timing belt cover, the crankshaft front oil seal, the crankshaft sprocket, the timing belt and the front timing belt covers. Replace the mount support bracket for the engine, mount the vibration damper onto the crankshaft and put a new oil filter in place. After it's disassembled, mount the engine again on Dolly 6135 (7) and Cradle 6710 (8). Then secure it with safety straps (4), put in both the rear oil seal and the drive plate/flex plate and tighten each bolt to 95 Nm (70 ft. lbs.). Bolt on the transaxle to the engine, tightening its bolts to 101 Nm (75 ft. lbs.) first and attach the engine assembly.