Place the crankshaft in position by inserting its upper and lower halves so the bearing with the oil groove and hole is aligned within the engine block. The crankshaft uses five main bearings and both the upper and lower bearing shells in each of these have oil holes and grooves. End play in the crankshaft is controlled by a flanged bearing on the number three main bearing journal. First, add the main bearing upper shells and check that the oil openings match and that the tabs from the metal shells fit into the block's slots. Be sure not to use oil where the bed plate matches up to maintain how well the sealant protects. If your crankshaft has been machined, it should be balanced with the main bearing ring set up, not separately. Using Mopar(R) Brake Parts cleaner, clean the slots around the crankshaft and target ring and then dry them with compressed air. At the start, use new screws for your target ring and install them at #1 hole first. Once engaged, tighten all the screws to 13 Nm (110 in-lbs) with a T30 torx bit. Put a bead of Mopar(R) Bed Plate Sealant about 1.5 to 2.0 mm wide on the bed plate before setting the crankshaft into the engine block. Set the bottom main bearings into the main bearing cap/bed plate or plate, so that the tabs match up and then fix the plate to the engine block. Before you install them, put oil on bolts 11, 17 and 20 and tighten them with your fingers, then tighten them the rest of the way after you see the bed plate making contact with the cylinder block. With the number 4 piston at Tdc, rotate the crankshrust, press the rear of the barrel rearward to its limit, then move it forward to its limit and fit a tool between the rear of the barrel and the rear crankshaft counterweight to hold it in place. Tighten each bolt 1-10 to a torque of 41 Nm, take out the wedge tool and then tighten them all again to the same amount. Torque bolts 11-20 in sequence between 11-20 Nm (250 in. lbs.), tighten bolts 1-10 to 75 Nm (55 ft. lbs.) and then torque bolts 11-20 again to 28 Nm (250 in. lbs.). Check the main bearing bed plate has been correctly installed and then gauge the crankshaft turning torque, only allowing up to 5.6 Nm (50 in. lbs.). Put on the new connecting
Rod Bearings and caps, but never use any of the old connecting rod bolts-torque them to 27 Nm (20 ft. lbs.) and then turn them 1/4 more. Set the balance shafts and housing, the oil pump and the oil pump pick-up tube into position, using 23 Nm (200 in. lbs.) for the fastener. Add the
Oil Pan, install the crankshaft position sensor and secure the cylinder head after removal. Install the rear cover for the
Timing Belt, seal for the front crankshaft, crankshaft sprocket, timing belt and the two timing belt front covers. Affix the support bracket for the engine mount and the crankshaft vibration damper. Following this, take out the old
Oil Filter, disconnect and roll the engine under Dolly 6135 and Cradle 6710 and secure it with safety bands. After that, fit the crankshaft rear oil seal, mount the drive plate/flex plate using Mopar(R) Lock & Seal Adhesive on the bolts, tighten the bolts to 95 Nm (70 ft. lbs.), fit the transaxle to the engine using 101 Nm (75 ft. lbs.) on each set of bolts and fit the complete engine assembly.