OEM 2009 Dodge Nitro Timing Chain

2009 Dodge Nitro Timing Chain Parts and Q&A

• Q: How to Replace a Timing Chain and Its Sprockets on 2009 Dodge Nitro?

  A: Start by pressing slightly on the secondary chain tensioner piston until the piston step lines up with the tensioner body. Use the access hole on the side of the tensioner to pull back the ratchet pawl against spring force, then nudge the ratchet device by 2 mm away from the main part of the tensioner, still holding the pawl back. Fit the tensioner pin 8514 into the front of the tensioner and turn the vise handle gently to direct the piston spring pressure toward the lock pin. Lay the primary chain tensioner over the oil pump, thread the bolts into the bottom holes on the bracket and tighten them to 28 Nm or 21 ft. lbs. First, put on the right chain tensioner arm with the Torx bolt and tighten to 28 Nm (21 ft. lbs.) Then, attach the left side chain guide and tighten its bolts to 28 Nm (21 ft. lbs.). Then, attach the left side chain tensioner arm with the Torx bolt and tighten it to 28 Nm (21 ft. lbs.), next do the same with the right side chain guide, tightening it also to 28 Nm (21 ft. lbs.). Industrial bicycles should have both secondary chains attached to the idler sprocket so that the plates of the two chains are seen through the bottom holes of the idler sprocket. Set the secondary camshaft chain holder 8429 to keep the chains where they should be, line up the primary chain double plated links with the timing mark at 12 o'clock in the idler sprocket and the primary chain single plated link with the timing mark at 6 o'clock on the crankshaft sprocket. After lubricating the idler shaft and bushings with clean engine oil, adjust the distance between the idler sprocket and counterbalance shaft drive gear until none of both teeth are visible. Set all these parts together, pass both secondary chains through the openings in the block and cylinder head and strap the chains with a rubber band to keep them taut. Get the timing marks on both idler sprocket and counterbalance shaft drive lined up and fully fit the idler sprocket into place. Grease the idler sprocket bolt washer, set in the idler sprocket assembly and tighten the bolt to 34 Nm (25 ft. lbs.). With the crank function, move the camshafts slightly so the sprockets connect with the plated links on the chain. Clean off extra oil from the camshaft sprocket bolts, join both sprockets to the cams without tightening and make sure all plated links are lined up with the marks on the sprockets, so that the "V6" marks on the cam sprockets are at the top. After installing both secondary chain tensioners and tightening the bolts to 28 Nm (21 ft. lbs.), remove each locking pin from the tensioners, making certain that you do not stretch them manually. With adaptor pins 8346, pre-tighten the camshaft sprocket bolts at 71 Nm (53 ft. lbs.) and finish tightening them with a torque wrench to 122 Nm (90 ft. lbs.) on both camshaft sprockets. Turn the engine through a full two revolutions and check again that the timing marks are aligned. Apply engine oil to each chain, then look at the end play of the idler gear; it should be within 0.10 - 0.25 mm (0.004 - 0.010 in.). If it fails this check, replace the idler gear. Install the timing chain cover, then the crankshaft damper and after that the cylinder head covers, always coating the threaded hole in the right cylinder head with Mopar Thread Sealant with Teflon and tightening it to 81 Nm (60 ft. lbs.). Simply attach the oil fill housing, put in the power steering pump and plug in the access line to the cylinder head in the left. After that, connect the negative battery cable and top up the cooling system.