OEM 2008 Dodge Nitro Timing Chain

2008 Dodge Nitro Timing Chain Parts and Q&A

• Q: How to Remove and Replace a Timing Chain on 2008 Dodge Nitro?

  A: Start by pressing down on the secondary chain tensioner piston until the piston step is even with the tensioner body and then release the ratchet pawl by pulling it back against spring force from the tensioner's side access hole. With the pawl moved to the side, slide the ratchet almost 2 mm from the tensioner until it stops. Insert pin 8514 from the back, into the hole in the tensioner's front and open the vise slowly to push piston spring force onto the lock pin. Mount the primary chain tensioner over the oil pump and screw bolts into the lower two holes on the tensioner bracket, applying 28 Nm of force. Attach the right side chain tensioner arm and its associated screw, tighten it to 28 Nm and next do the same for the left side chain guide and left side chain tensioner arm. After that, set the side chain guide in place and tighten the bolts to 28 Nm. Secure one secondary chain to the idler sprocket, so that its two plated links fit through the lower holes and line up your Secondary Camshaft Chain Holder 8429 at the same time. Put the primary double-plated links at the timing mark at 12 o'clock on the idler sprocket and the primary unplated link at the timing mark at 6 o'clock on the crankshaft sprocket. Put engine oil on the idler shaft and bushings, making sure the sprocket is timed with the other gear before you seat it. Connect the chains, crankshaft sprocket and idler sprocket as a pack, leading each secondary chain through its opening in the block and cylinder head and binding them all with an elastic strap. Match the timing marks on the idler sprocket gear to those on the drive gear for the counterbalance shaft and after that, seat the idler sprocket. Listen to this NIH video on how to replace the idler sprocket bolt: Rotate the camshafts a little before installing the sprockets, so that the left camshaft sprocket "L" dot lines up with the plated link on the chain and the right camshaft sprocket "R" dot does the same. Wipe the camshaft sprocket bolt clean of excess oil and put both sprockets on the camshafts without tightening the bolts just yet. Check that the marks on every sprocket match the placement of all the plated links and confirm the "V6" marks on the camshaft sprockets are at the 12 o'clock spot, before you put in the left side secondary chain tensioner plate. Put the secondary chain tensioners in and tighten the bolts to 28 Nm before removing the three locking pins from each tensioner; be careful not to extend the tensioners yourself. Attach Adaptor Pins 8346 to Spanner Wrench 6958 and tighten the bolts holding the left and right camshaft sprockets to 122 Nm. By turning the engine two times, check that the primary chain idler dot is at 12 o'clock, the primary chain crankshaft dot is at 6 o'clock, the V6 marks on the secondary chain camshaft slots are at 12 o'clock and the counterbalancer shaft drive dot is lined up with the idler sprocket gear dot. Put engine oil on all three chains, examine the idler gear end play (should be 0.10 - 0.25 mm) and change the idler gear if it is outside the permissible amount. After the timing chain cover and crankshaft damper are installed, set the cylinder head covers, making sure sealant covers the threaded plug in the proper cylinder head to block leaks. Apply Mopar Thread Sealant with Teflon to the large threaded access plug, put it into the right cylinder head and screw it in to 81 Nm. Put on the oil fill housing, insert the access plug on the left cylinder head and fit the power steering pump. After that, fill the cooling system and link the negative cable to the battery.