OEM 2010 Dodge Challenger Crossmember Bushing

2010 Dodge Challenger Crossmember Bushing Parts and Q&A

• Q: What Is the Best Way to Install a Crossmember Bushing for Optimal Performance and Durability on 2010 Dodge Challenger?

  A: You should only use the bushing from the same side and check that the travel limiter is pointing as expected, right side bushings have the limiter facing left and left side bushings have the limiter facing right. In order to keep the ride of the vehicle comfortable and long-lasting, the bushing should be reinstalled in the same location as it was before. Set the bushing into the crossmember's bushing bore and match the can flange to the reference marks. Working with the Receiver 9031-6, Press C-4212F and Installer 9031-7A, make certain the Installer is above the compression link bracket so it can be cleared during the installation process. Use the Press screw-drive to force the bushing into the crossmember until you feel the can flange come into contact with it. Once you have taken out the tools, check if the bushing is at the proper position and make sure the bolt and nut holding the compression link to the crossmember are not tightened. Set up the crossmember so it connects with the body mounting points, fit the propeller shaft onto the rear axle differential and slide the shock absorbers into the spring link pockets. Remember, the rear bolts are longer than the front and should not be used on the front side. Keep moving the crossmember up until you can insert the left bolts, tighten those and secure the crossmember in place without tightening the right side bolts. Decrease the jack's height, so the right side of the crossmember drops only enough to allow for the coils, but the isolators are still completely on the ends. Slide the coil spring with isolators into the spring pocket, making sure the spring's top is in the same place as the body mount. Raise the jack while guiding the coil spring and lower end of the shock into position, then put in the lower shock mounting bolt and nut but don't tighten them yet. Prior to lifting the right crossmember, install spacers on top of the bushing where it's mounted to the crossmember. Swing the raised right crossmember into position and put on the right mounting bolts, making them snug but not fully tight. Lower the jack slowly on the left side after removing both front and rear crossmember mounting bolts to let the left crossmember hang down for installing the coil springs and isolators. Set the coil spring with isolators into its spring pocket, ensure the top is level with the body mount and lift the jack to help insert the coil spring and shock absorber lower mount, stopping when the lower hole in the shock absorber lines up with the spring link. Place the lower shock mounting bolt and nut on without tightening and if your vehicle is AWD, place spacers over the left crossmember mount bushings before you elevate the crossmember. Lift the left side of the crossmember into place and put in the left side mounting bolts, making sure they are snug but not fully tight. Adjust the crossmember as required to position the mounts close to the outlined marks on the vehicle, measuring between the tension link and the weld flange to make certain the distance is at least 12 mm for smooth suspension travel. Secure all four crossmember mounting bolts with 180 Nm (133 ft. lbs.) of torque, remove the jack holding up the rear axle differential and then let go of the bungee cord holding the propeller shaft in place. Place the propeller shaft index marks together and connect the flange bolts to the coupler. Tighten them to 81 Nm (60 ft. lbs.). Connect the fuel filler tube, fasten the left rear wheel speed sensor cable to the routing clip by the body connector and match the left rear wheel speed sensor to the right sensor connector. Slide the speed sensor connectors into the body wiring harness connector on the luggage compartment floor pan, with the retaining clip in place. When installing disc brakes, first push the guide pins into the caliper adapter, then move the caliper and the brake hose down through the rear suspension and lastly slide the caliper over the pads onto the caliper adapter, watching that you do not cross-thread the guide pins. Screw the guide pin bolts to 31 Nm (23 ft. lbs.) as you hold the guide pins from turning to ensure the brake hose is correctly routed. Hold up the spring link with a transmission jack, bring the caliper and pads over the brake rotor, then put in the caliper mounting bolts and tighten them to 130 Nm (96 ft. lbs.). Above the rear crossmember, apply the parking brake cable, join the front parking brake cable at the connector with the right rear parking brake cable and screw in the front parking brake cable routing bracket to the rear crossmember. Attach the rear exhaust and the tires and wheels, then tighten the wheel mounting nuts to a resistance of 150 Nm (110 ft. lbs.). Drop the vehicle until the rear wheels almost touch the floor, push and release the brake lever and watch to see that the wheels do not move with the lever applied. Straighten the car, fasten the negative terminal of the battery cable to the battery and give the brake a few pumps before driving. Put the vehicle on an alignment rack, raise the car when needed for access to the bolts and secure both nuts on the shock absorber lower mounting bolts to 72 Nm (53 ft. lbs.) and the crossmember's compression link bolt and nut to 85 Nm (63 ft. lbs.). Lastly, check that the wheel alignment is correct, focusing on the thrust angle and if the crossmember needs to be shifted to fix the thrust angle, make sure you don't mess up the tension link clearance.