Put the rear crossmember under the vehicle and on the jack head so it's in the same place and secure it. Make sure one side knuckle with links and
Parking Brake Cable has connections and secure it with a nut and bolt to the rear suspension crossmember. Do the same thing for the other side knuckle. On every side of the crossmember, attach tension links and compression links, plus their nuts and bolts, without tightening them. Put the toe link's cam bolt through the crossmember and rear link and collar it with the washer and nut, making sure to not tighten the nut as you push the cam bolt in. Put bolts and nuts into the spring link holders and guide the parking brake cable beneath the crossmember brackets, using the retainer to hold it in place. Set up the guide for the parking brake cable with the J-nuts and screws and screw the stabilizer bar back in with cushions and retainers, leaving the cushion retainer mounting bolts a bit loose. Bolt on the ends of the stabilizer bar to the stabilizer links using bolts and nuts, but check that they are not tight, for now. Put the differential mount bolts into the bushings after mounting them, then raise the crossmember and move them to the replacement crossmember by installing them from the back. Join the crossmember with the body at the right spots, watch that the shocks fit inside the pockets of the spring links and fit the left side bolts, but not too tight. Reduce the height of the jack as you go to help the
Coil Springs fit and so the isolators can be added. Install the top end of the coil spring into its spring pocket, aligning it with the body mount as you go. Then slowly raise the jack and lower down the coil spring and
Shock Absorber onto the ends, stopping at the spot where the shock absorber's lower hole matches the spring link. Secure the lower shock mounting bolt and nut, but don't tighten them yet. If your car has AWD, insert spacer bushings on top of the right crossmember mount bushes prior to lifting the crossmember. Lift the left part of the crossmember and place the right install bolts, only tightening them slightly. Pull out the left side bolts and lower the jack enough to replace the left coil spring, keeping the isolators put. After you're done on the right side, repeat the steps for the left side, then line up the crossmember with the marks and check the distance between the tension link and weld flange is at least 12 mm. Secure all four mounting bolts to 180 Nm (133 ft. lbs.) and move the jack aside. Place the fuel filler tube and attach the left rear wheel speed sensor cables to their proper clips. Attach both left and right rear parking brake cables to the equalizer and front parking brake cable and fit the parking brake cable routing bracket J-nut to the rear crossmember so you can secure it in place. Feed an axle half shaft through the hub and bearing, then thread the hub nut on and do not tighten it yet. Attach the rear axle differential and make sure to tighten the nut to 213 Nm (157 ft. lbs.) as someone else works the brakes. After installing the rear exhaust, bring the vehicle down until the front tires rest on the floor, then place jack stands beneath the rear suspension spring links. Camber, tension, compression and spring link bolts should match their required torque values, while lower shock absorber mounting nut and both stabilizer link bolts do as well. Lift the vehicle up, take away the jack stands, fit the new wheels, tightening the wheel-to-car rivets to 150 Nm (110 ft. lbs.) and then bring the car down. Link the battery's negative cable and stomp on the brake pedal a few times to guarantee it feels firm before moving the car. After that, you should align the wheels and once finished, tighten the toe link cam bolt nut to 108 Nm (80 ft. lbs.) torque.