First, break the negative link from the battery and isolate the cable before starting to service the compressor clutch assembly. If your car has a 5.7L or 6.1L engine, unhook the air intake hose and the air cleaner housing and afterwards take out the radiator fan and its accompanying shroud. Following that, tear away the engine belt from its accessory accessories and separate the engine wire harness from the compressor clutch field coil connector on top of the A/C compressor. Some designs call for removing the A/C compressor to allow access to the compressor shaft bolt or pulley and field coil snap rings and the refrigerant system is not drained so it can stay charged. Open the connector mounting fingers, take the field coil connector and wire lead off the connector and then loosen the compressor shaft bolt, using a band-type oil filter wrench or strap wrench to fasten the clutch plate during detachment. It's important not to separate the clutch plate from the pulley and bearing assembly to avoid damaging them. Be careful not to drop or remove any clutch shim(s) while taking out the clutch, as you can use them again. Use a plastic mallet to tap the clutch plate carefully, letting it come free from the splines on the compressor shaft and then remove both the clutch plate and the shims. After putting snap ring pliers 9764 or any equivalent to use, take out the external snap ring and lift off the pulley and bearing assembly from the A/C compressor cover. After that, detach the outer lock ring securing the clutch field coil and pull out the coil from beneath the front of the A/C compressor. During installation, fit the dowel pin in the clutch field coil hole in the compressor's front cover and secure it, checking that the wire connection lead does not get caught in the way. After the old snap ring is removed, select a new one and make sure the bevel side is pointed out andits eyelets face out. Make sure the snap ring for the CL field coil grasp is tight in its groove on the spring and clutch drum of the compressor. Position the contact point for the compressor clutch field coil to prevent it from being damaged by the pulley and bearing assembly which should not be put on so that it disturbs the friction surface. In some cases, simply tap the pulley with a wooden block. You should also apply a new snap ring, making sure the bevel part is on the inside, before releasing the lockstrip. Attach the external snap ring onto the pulley and bearing, so that both are firmly fitted. For a remanufactured clutch plate and pulley, replace the original shims; but for a brand new clutch plate, use a trial stack of two floating shims that are each 2.54 mm thick. Put on the clutch plate and fasten the front shaft bolt to tighten it to 19 Nm. Once tightened, double-check the air gap in more than one position, all the while holding the pulley and spinning it slowly, just before checking the final fit. For bikes that have a recessed clutch plate, check using 0.35 - 0.60mm wire gap gauge, while for others you can try different blade type feeler gauge still keeping the air gap between 0.35 - 0.60 mm. Guide the wire from the compressor clutch field coil behind the connector bracket, put the compressor clutch field coil connector on the bracket and link up the engine wire harness again. Reinstall the accessory
Drive Belt, radiator fan and shroud, air cleaner housing and air intake hose for 5.7L and 6.1L engine vehicles and reattach the negative
Battery Cable.