The crankshaft is held up by five main bearings and all the upper bearing shells inside the crankcase have oil grooves and holes, but the lower ones are plain. A two-piece thrust bearing on the number three main bearing journal handles crankshaft end play. Wash the main bearing cap bolt holes with Mopar brake parts cleaner, then vacuum them using compressed air. Make certain that the oil holes and the groove in the bearing shells all line up with the oil holes in the engine block while securing the bearing tabs. After machine work on the crankshaft, you should balance it with the target ring in place. Clean the crankshaft and target ring with the Mopar brake parts cleaner and then blast them dry using compressed air. Every time you mount a crossbow, start by screwing the nuts into the target ring at spot #1, ensure they are properly engaged and tighten them all to 13 Nm (110 in-lbs) using the correct order. After applying trans gel to the thin side, position the thrust bearings so their notches are located near the crankshaft. Slip the thrust bearings into the engine block, careful not to let the oil go on the part that touches the ladder frame since it can harm the RTV seal. Lubricate the crankshaft bearings and journals before you fit the crankshaft into the engine block. Secure the lower main bearings into the main bearing cap, make sure the tabs align correctly and after that bolt the main bearing caps to the engine block, ensuring all of the bolt threads are clean and dry before installing them. Correctly aligning the thrust bearing requires the crankshaft to reach its limits: forward when the number 4 piston is at TDC, then backward and then using a tool placed in between the crankshaft counterweight and the rear cylinder block to wedge it into the forward limit. Look at the bolt heads to choose the proper torque level, since the requirements differ for each kind of main bolt. Once the bolt heads match the standard, tighten them first to 15 Nm (11 ft. lbs.), next to 27 Nm (20 ft. lbs.) and then rotate them an extra 45° past the first tightening step. Should the bolt heads not align, tighten at 15 Nm (11 ft. lbs.), then to 45 Nm (33 ft. lbs.) and turn the extra 45° after that. Take out the wedge tool and measure the turning torque of the crankshaft. Its maximum should be 5.6 Nm (50 in. lbs.) and also check the crankshaft's end play. Connecting
Rod Bearings and caps should be installed and you should use new fasteners for them, tightened to a value of 20 Nm + 90° (15 ft. lbs.) + 90°. After that, mount the ladder frame assembly, balance shaft module, crankshaft position sensor and cylinder head (if removed). Assemble the front crankshaft sprocket, install the timing chain, put on the timing chain front cover, set up the
Oil Pan, fit the rear crankshaft oil seal, place the front crankshaft oil seal, dowel the engine mount support bracket, fit the crankshaft vibration damper and lastly, add the water pump pulley. After taking the engine off the stand, hook up the engine lift chain and then put in the crankshaft's rear oil seal and drive plate/flex plate using fresh, tightened bolts that are set to 95 Nm (70 ft. lbs.). Secure the transaxle to the engine, tightening the bolts in the bellhousing to 101 Nm (75 ft. lbs.) and assemble the engine. Put a new
Oil Filter in place, add oil and coolant, start the engine briefly, check for leaks and mount the engine cover.