OEM 2010 Dodge Caliber Brake Master Cylinder

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2 Brake Master Cylinders found

  • 2010 Dodge Caliber Brake Master Cylinder - 5175701AA
    2010 Dodge Caliber Brake Master Cylinder Diagram - 5175701AA
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    2010 Dodge Caliber Master Cylinder Part Number: 5175701AA

    $90.92 MSRP: $151.00
    You Save: $60.08 (40%)
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    Product Specifications
    • Other Name: Cylinder - Brake; Brake Master Cylinder; Master Cylinder Brake
    • Item Weight: 3.20 Pounds
    • Item Dimensions: 10.1 x 10.2 x 7.8 inches
    • Condition: New
    • Fitment Type: Direct Replacement
    • SKU: 5175701AA
    • Warranty: This genuine part is guaranteed by Mopar's factory warranty.
    More Info
    Fits the following 2010 Dodge Caliber Submodels:
    • Express, Heat, Mainstreet, R/T, Rush, SE, SRT-4, SXT, Uptown | 4 Cyl 1.8 L GAS, 4 Cyl 2.0 L GAS, 4 Cyl 2.4 L GAS
  • 2010 Dodge Caliber Brake Master Cylinder - 5175093AB
    2010 Dodge Caliber Brake Master Cylinder Diagram - 5175093AB
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    2010 Dodge Caliber Master Cylinder Part Number: 5175093AB

    $220.45 MSRP: $307.00
    You Save: $86.55 (29%)
    ADD TO CART
    Product Specifications
    • Other Name: Cylinder - Brake; Brake Master Cylinder; Clutch Master Cylinder; Master Cylinder Brake
    • Replaces: 5175093AA
    • Item Weight: 1.90 Pounds
    • Item Dimensions: 10.1 x 6.0 x 5.2 inches
    • Condition: New
    • Fitment Type: Direct Replacement
    • SKU: 5175093AB
    • Warranty: This genuine part is guaranteed by Mopar's factory warranty.
    More Info
    Fits the following 2010 Dodge Caliber Submodels:
    • Express, Heat, Mainstreet, R/T, Rush, SE, SRT-4, SXT, SXT Plus, Uptown | 1.8L L4, 2.0L L4, 2.4L L4, 4 Cyl 1.8 L GAS, 4 Cyl 2.0 L GAS, 4 Cyl 2.4 L GAS

2010 Dodge Caliber Brake Master Cylinder Parts and Q&A

  • Q: How to Remove and Replace a Brake Master Cylinder Without ABS on 2010 Dodge Caliber?
    A: Before you remove and replace the brake master cylinder without ABS, place and tighten the proportioning valves in the master cylinder ports using 30 Nm (22 ft. lbs.). You need to bleed the master cylinder before putting it in place. Open the bleeder screw on the master cylinder and clean the spot at the booster where the master cylinder seal fits, so no cleaner or remains get inside the booster. If a new vacuum seal isn't on the master cylinder flange, take out the old one and add the new one, making sure it's placed correctly in the groove. When your master cylinder push rod butts up against something, reset its angle by matching it to the booster rod. Place the master cylinder over the power brake booster so its mounting holes line up with the booster's studs and then slowly slide the master cylinder onto the brake booster face. Put in two new master cylinder mounting nuts and tighten each to the required 18 ft. lbs. When the reservoir is new and the vehicle has a manual transaxle, make a cut at the center of the groove to release the hydraulic clutch and toss the piece of plug you cut out. Place the end of the clutch actuator hose onto the reservoir port and attach the hose clamp. After connecting the two rear brake tubes to the proportioning valves, tighten the tube nuts to 17 Nm (150 in. lbs.) and then attach both front brake lines, again tightening the tube nuts to the same torque. Connect the wiring harness to the switch that measures the level of brake fluid. For safety reasons, a reservoir blocker should be put on the master cylinder brake fluid reservoir, but if the blocker is not available, take it out of your original reservoir and place it securely. Linked the auto battery cable and make sure that the master cylinder reservoir is at the right level. Check to see that the brake pedal is firm and has plenty of flushing force; otherwise, bleed the hydraulic system and seek any leaks. Test the vehicle's brakes on the road to ensure it works correctly.

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