Before you work on the compressor clutch, independent of the battery negative cable and release the compressor clutch coil wire harness. Use Special Tool 6462 from Kit 6460 to hold the clutch plate still while you remove the hex nut, keeping the two pins of the spanner wrench in the holes. After that, disconnect the clutch plate and clutch shims and then remove the front housing snap ring with snap ring pliers. With the lip of the rotor puller, installed into the snap ring groove, add the shaft protector (Special Tool C-6141-2 from Kit 6460). Using the through-bolts supplied (Special Tool C-6461), put the puller onto the front of the rotor until pins are inserted into the flange and tighten them. After that, push in the center bolt and turn clockwise until you pull the pulley free. Unscrew the screw and retainer from the clutch coil lead wire harness, then pull out the snap ring on the compressor hub and slide the clutch field coil away. Check the wear on the contact surfaces of the clutch pulley and front plate and choose to replace them if too much wear or damage are found. Look at the friction parts and the compressor shaft and nose; if oil is found on the front cover's felt, it means the shaft seal is bad and you should replace the compressor. If the clutch pulley bearing is rough or if there is too much grease leaking, change it as required. Initially, add the clutch field coil and snap ring and then attach the clip from the clutch coil lead wire harness to the front of the compressor using a retaining screw. Square up the rotor assembly near the front housing hub, then add the handle (Special Tool 6464 from Kit 6460) into the driver (Special Tool 6143 from Kit 6460). Insert the driver tool into the bearing cavity on the rotor so that the leading edge of the assembly touches the rotor's bearing inner race. While tapping the driver, move the rotor and listen for a different noise. Put in the outer front rotor snap ring, so the bevel side is outward and correctly in place or the clutch will not function properly. Start by fitting the clutch shims onto the compressor shaft, then the clutch plate and use a shaft protector (the featured tool from Kit 6460) to tap the clutch plate until you hear it bottom out against the shims. Screw the hex nut located on the compressor shaft until you reach a torque of 14.4 Nm (10.5 ft. lbs.). Measure the clutch air gap with the feeler gauge, changing the shims as required to meet the needs of between 0.41 mm and 0.79 mm (0.016 inch and 0.031 inch). Make sure the parts are even around the circumference through light prying or tapping. Always place the shims that come with the clutch when mounting a new clutch. Lastly, follow the steps you took to take things out of the game to setup everything again. For proper seating and more strength from the clutch, run the new compressor clutch around 20 times (five seconds each at full-on and full-off) along with full air-conditioning and high-speed fan, plus an engine running at about 1500 to 2000 rpm.