Deeply scored or warped brake drums should be raw on a special brake lathe that installers use, following the maker's directions. Measure the inside diameter of the brake drum before any machining; a drum that will go over the maximum diameter must be replaced. The maximum inside diameter recommended by the brake drum is indicated on all brake drums. Be sure to set the final machining feed cut to fine, to make sure the screw effect does not happen when braking on your brake shoes; however, this may differ by the brand of lathe you use. When removing the brake drum, lift the car, take off the rear tires and wheel mount and slide the brake drum away from the mounted wheel studs. Should the drum remain on, use a pawl release tool made from a coat hanger or heavy mechanics wire, remove the plug from the end of the support plate located under the
Wheel Cylinder and insert the tool into the access hole to free the pawl from the adjuster's star-wheel teeth as the wheel moves downward. If the adjuster screw is backed away far enough, the drum will slide off the wheel studs. After you have set aside the tools, mount the plug in the support plate. Prior to adding the drum, check the brake shoe linings for their condition, proper placement and if they are dirty, carry out repairs or replacements. If there is rust or foreign objects on the hub, drum or wheel mating spots, remove them with a wet wire brush prior to assembly. Clean the stretch marks around the outer machined part of the drum, measure the brake shoes to the drum's width using the tool and screw on the drum to the rear hub and bearing. Fit the wheel and tire assembly back on, tighten the wheel mounting nuts to 135 Nm (100 ft. lbs.) and lower the vehicle. After that, do a road test and check that the vehicle brakes smoothly in both directions, because the automatic adjuster will adjust them as you go.