When you want to service and repair a hydraulic lifter, start by removing both the cylinder head and then the push rods. Pull out the tappets using a Hydraulic Valve Tappet Tool via push rod openings in the cylinder block, putting all pieces back as they were picked up. Put each tappet assembly into cleaning solvent to remove varnish, gum and sludge buildup. Examine the side and base of every tappet to find scuffing; inspect the base again with a straightedge to look for concave wear and if found, you should replace both the
Camshaft and tappets. Make sure each tappet meets its zero-lash requirement by fitting a 7.925 - 7.950 mm diameter ball bearing on the plunger cap, inserting the tappet into the tester cup and pressing the ram, keeping the hex nut unadjusted as it touches the ball bearing. Pour hydraulic valve tappet test oil into the tester cup so that the tappet is under the oil, then press the plunger pump to remove air bubbles. Set the pointer on the ram to line up with the SET mark and fasten the nut, then lift the weighted arm onto the push rod and observe the leak-down time for the valve; a good tappet should leak down between 20 and 110 seconds, so any that do not should be replaced. There is no need to place the oil hole plugs for each tappet in. Instead, dip each tappet in Mopar Engine Oil Supplement or an equivalent, then use the Hydraulic Valve Tappet Removal/Installation Tool to put each tappet back into its bore. Reassemble the cylinder head and insert all of the push rods,
Rocker Arms and assembly bridges and pivots until the capscrews are loosely inserted. Then, tighten each screw in turn to 28 Nm torque. Slowly pour what is left of the Mopar Engine Oil Supplement on the valve actuating assembly, so it isn't drained before 1,609 km and then secure the cylinder head cover.