Before doing any motor work, first remove the negative cable from the battery. Take hold of the plastic trim removal stick and unlock the bezel; it should snap when done. Then, unscrew the two screws holding down the silencer pad and take it out. Following this, remove the knee blocker and two torx screws from the key cylinder housing. As before, use the plastic trim removal stick to uncover the I.p. cluster bezel. After removing one more torx screw from the key cylinder housing, slip the key/cylinder/switch/cable/Skreem assembly down and separate the two connectors so the cable does not kink. Press the tabs on the switch to pull the cable free. After taking out the Skreem unit screw, remove the ignition switch by taking out its screw, pressing on small tabs and then working the switch out of the housing. In order to remove the key lock cylinder, first put the key in the On position and click the release tab. First, insert the ignition key into the lock cylinder and turn it to On so the rubber tab is pressed. Align the lock cylinder shaft with the seat in the housing, making both are set to On and slide the cylinder in until you can see the release tab. Press the ignition switch into the switch housing and hold it in place with the screw. Fit back the Skreem component and the screw, move the cable so the tab slides onto it, then screw in just one torx screw for the key cylinder housing until it is just tight enough. Next, install the additional two torx screws and give all three a tightening. At the end of the procedure, set up the knee blocker, add the silencer and put back both bezels, along with the negative battery cable.