Before servicing the catalytic converter, allow the exhaust to cool because the catalyst runs hot. Grab the negative (black) connector from the battery and lift the vehicle up on a hoist. To do this on the right catalytic converter, take off the connectors from the downstream oxygen sensor, disconnect the muffler and resonator, remove the nuts and cross-brace on 2.7L/3.5L models, unwind the nuts at the catalytic converter ball flange and release the catalytic converter. On the left-hand catalytic converter, position the car so you can reach under it and unplug the downstream oxygen sensor wires, take out the muffler and resonator assembly and unscrew the ball flange nuts and the catalytic converter. Check for blocked pipes in the catalytic converter and visually inspect the element for any issues or cracks, be sure to find and fix the problem before swapping it. Install the catalytic converter onto the exhaust manifold ball flange and fasten everything with your fingers, then slide in the muffler and resonator assembly and secure all bolts and the cross brace with a torque wrench up to 55 Nm (40 ft. lbs.). Tighten the manifold ball flange nut to 12 Nm (106 inch lbs.), then look at the gap between the exhaust module and fuel tank and at the rear tunnel reinforcement area: it should measure 14 mm (0.55 inch) in V8s and 16 mm (0.62 inch) in V6s, replacing and adjusting as needed. Last, turn the ball flange nuts to a torque of 34 Nm (25 ft. lbs.), link the oxygen sensors, drive down the car, link back the negative battery cable, crank the engine and look for exhaust leaks, resolving them if they exist.