Get rid of the remote ground cable by unplugging it from the shock tower first and then isolate it with an isolator. Suck out as much power steering fluid from the remote tank as you can and then straighten the
Steering Wheel and front wheels, locking the wheel. From under the instrument panel, take off the "E" clip and pinch bolt from the rack and pinion shaft linkage on early vehicles. On later models, just slide the intermediate shaft off the rack and pinion shaft. Raise the car, remove the wheels and tires from the front and then remove the outer ends of the tie rod from the steering using a socket and screw. To change the
Tie Rod End studs, use the Special Tool MB-991113 to remove them. Put marks on the crossmember and on the body where it will fit together before you remove the crossmember. Detach the bushing clamp nuts, use a wire to keep the antilock brakes unit supported and unlink the crossmember from the front suspension. Start by removing the under engine support bracket, then the front bolts holding the shock absorber clevis clips to the crossmember and then the bolts from the rear support bracket and the engine bracket to the transaxle mounting bracket. Reduce the front suspension crossmember enough with the transmission jack that you can remove the rack and pinion safely and without it hanging on the lower control arms. Disconnect the power steering fluid hoses and the wiring harness connector from the rack and pinion. Afterward, remove the bolts that connect the assembly to the crossmember. While putting in an updated rack and pinion, take over the required parts from the old system. To install, set the rack and pinion on the front suspension crossmember and attach it securely with the right bolts, tightened to 68 Nm (50 ft. lbs.). Join the power steering fluid lines, tightening them to 31 Nm (275 inch lbs.) and clamp the front suspension crossmember into place, so it lines up with the marks seen earlier. Tighten each mounting bolt to a force of 2 Nm (20 inch lbs.) to hold it all in place and then gently push the crossmember into the right place. Torque each rear and front bolt you put in to a strength of 163 Nm (120 ft. lbs.). Secure the engine support bracket loosely, attach the rear support bracket and fit each bolt with 75 Nm (55 ft. lbs.) of torque. Put the harness back into the power steering fluid pressure switch and seat the antilock brakes hydraulic control unit. Fit the shock absorber clevis loosely on the lower control arm and attach the tie rod end onto the
Steering Knuckle, tightened to 61 Nm (45 ft. lbs.). Attach the stabilizer bar bushing clamp tightly, raise the vehicle, lower it again and tighten the shock absorber clevis bolt to the indicated torque of 92 Nm (68 ft. lbs.). Put in the wheel and tire assemblies and tighten the nuts to a torque of 129 Nm (95 ft. lbs.). Secure the intermediate shaft onto the rack and pinion shaft, center the steering wheel and use the proper torque for the pinch bolt on each model. Take away the steering wheel holder, stop at the correct fluid level in the reservoir, start the engine for pumping and look for any leaks. When done, raise just the front wheels, bleed the steering, gently lower the wheels, check front alignment, set the Toe and tighten the tie rod jam nut to 74 Nm (55 ft. lbs.). Fix the rack and pinion to the tie rod boots when required.