The piston must be disconnected and replaced after the
Battery Cables are disconnected, the cylinder head is removed, the
Oil Pan is taken off and the suction tube is loosened. Turn the
Crankshaft with Miller Tool 7471-B so all pistons are located below top dead center. Scrape or carefully brush away carbon ridge patterns found at the top of the bore before taking out the pistons and if wear ridges exist, use a ridge reamer to remove them without trimming off too much of the wall. Mark the cylinder number at the top and front of the piston, ensuring the mark isn't closer than 5 mm to the outer edge, then stamp the cylinder number on both the connecting rod and cap. Make sure to gently unbolt both the connecting rod and its caps and then use a hammer handle to push both the piston and connecting rod through the cylinder bore. Put the piston/rod assemblies in a rack and replace any removed piston with one of the same number. Do not clean your pistons or pins in bead blast or with acid; instead, put them in some clean solvent, then rinse with hot water and blow dry with compressed air. Letting the pistons sit overnight helps soften carbon, so give the broken piston ring a turn to clear the ring grooves with water before you clean them again. Treat the connecting rods in the same way as well. Check the pistons for signs of damage or overwear anywhere: at the top, the ring area, on the skirt and pin bore; measure the skirt diameter and replace the piston if it is over the limit. Check if there is any damage in the upper groove. Then, judge the place for the intermediate ring by measuring a new piston ring and replacing the piston if the clearance exceeds 0.095 mm. If when testing with a new oil ring there's more than 0.128 mm clearance in the oil groove, you should replace the piston. Check to make sure the pin bore isn't larger than 40.012 mm and look for damage or signs of wear on the piston pin, measuring the diameter; if the pin is below 39.990 mm, change it out. Look at the connecting rods to ensure the I-Beam section is clear of dents and measure the length of the pin bore with a gauge; replace the rod if it is over 40.042 mm. During installation, apply clean engine oil to both the cylinder bores and the piston skirts, place the rings in position with the piston ring compressor and drop the piston and rod into the cylinder bore so the mark on the piston is facing forward. Press the piston about 50 mm below the block and line the rod and the crankshaft region together by moving the rod slowly. Apply some grease on the threads and the part under each connecting rod bolt head and be sure the number on the rod cap faces toward the oil cooler. With the rod installed, install the cap and bolts and secure them in three stages to 35 Nm, then move to 70 Nm and end with 100 Nm. Spin the crankshaft to test for freedom and determine the clearance beside the connecting rod and crankshaft. After that, secure the suction tube and oil pan, attach the cylinder head, use a new filter, fill the oil tank, reattach the battery's negative cables and ignite the engine.