It's important to empty the vacuum in the power brake booster by working the brake pedal, with the engine turned off, until you feel a firm pedal reply. First, remove the negative and positive cable ends from the battery, then unhook the battery thermal guard shield and take the battery, its clamp and nut apart. When speed control is available, undo the nuts and one bolt to take out the
Battery Tray after removing the vacuum hose from the tank. On cars with speed control, unplug the harness from the speed control servo, take out the two nuts that hold it and set the servo aside. If there is a 2.5L diesel engine, discard the coolant recovery pressure container and the bracket. Remove the wiring harness from the brake fluid level switch in the reservoir of the master cylinder and wipe the area where the master cylinder connects to the booster using a solvent called Mopar Brake Parts Cleaner. Take out the bolts attaching the master cylinder to the booster and move the master cylinder, always making sure you replace the vacuum seal. Vacuum hose is removed from the check valve on the booster without actually taking off the check valve. After removing the booster input rod trim cover, loosen the retaining clip on the brake pedal torque shaft pin and unhook the input rod, as you'll have to replace the clip once the booster is reinstalled. Moving the booster forward, unscrew and remove the three nuts on the dash panel, loosen the fourth nut and pull it out of the engine compartment. To install it, set the booster on the dash panel, place and tighten the upper and lower mounting nuts at an effort of 29 Nm (250 in. lbs.). Coat the brake pedal torque shaft pin in lubricant and put the booster input rod in with a new retaining clip, after which you should reinstall the trim cover. After completing a hose connection, remove the old rear seal from the master cylinder, connect its new seal and finally place it on the booster to align the push rod with the
Piston. Attach the master cylinder with two nuts set at 25 Nm (225 in. lbs.); then connect the wiring harness to the brake fluid level switch. If needed, again attach and tighten the coolant recovery pressure container and the bracket, after that reconnect the speed control servo and the wiring pin, using 14 Nm (124 in. lbs.). Insert the battery tray, tighten it with two nuts and a bolt and attach the servo vacuum hose if you have it. When all is finished, put in the battery, join the positive and negative cables and put the battery thermal guard shield back on. Exchange the
Brake Light Switch, bleed the base brakes if required and check the brakes by going on a test drive.