Assemble all rods on one bank at a time, noting which end came off of each cap when the installation is done. Don't use a punch to make marks on the rods and make sure you don't injure the surfaces where the rods and caps meet to steer clear of engine-related issues. Put the bearing shells in place so that the tangs sit in the machined holes in the rods and caps and check that the upper half of the bearing is lined up with the oil squirt hole in the rod; install the cap with the tangs on the same side. Be sure the maximum taper across a crankshaft journal is 0.015 mm (0.0006 inch) and the maximum out-of-round is 0.010 mm (0.0004 inch). Bearings come in 0.025 mm (0.001 inch) and 0.250 mm (0.010 inch) undersized versions and you should not mix them when replacing both halves; the rods and bearing caps should not be filed either. To measure Main Bearing Clearance and Connecting Rod Bearing Clearance, use plastigage according to what is required. If the threads on the bolts are getting narrow, replace them. You should use careful taps from a hammer and punch to remove the connecting rod bolts, so you don't damage the cracked cap. If some threads on the bolt do not touch the scale while it's held upright, you must change the bolt out. Before the cap goes on, grease its threads with engine oil, tighten each bolt just enough with your fingers, then tighten both nuts equally and bring them up to specification. To check the connecting rod side clearance, place a dial indicator at a fixed part on the engine, line up the probe perpendicularly with the cap being observed and when the connecting rod is moved to the rear, zero the dial indicator. Move the connecting rod to the front limit and read the dial indicator value which you must compare with the specifications. Perform this for every connecting rod as you turn the crankshaft.