Five main bearings are used to hold the crankshaft and the crankcase's upper bearing shells have both oil grooves and holes, but the lower bearing shells are plain. An assembly consisting of two parts called thrust bearings controls the end play of the crankshaft on the engine. Start by using Mopar brake parts cleaner on the main bearing cap bolt holes and then blow them out with compressed air. Position each upper bearing shell so its lubrication groove and oil hole are in line with the places in the engine block when you install them. Any crankshaft that goes to be machined should be balanced as a complete unit with the target ring. Dip both the crankshaft and target ring in Mopar brake parts cleaner and dry them away using compressed air. Before anything, install six fresh screws, just finger tight at the beginning in location #1 and then tighten all screws to 13 Nm (110 in-lbs) in the suggested order. Put trans gel on both sides of the thrust bearings, watching to ensure the notches are facing the crankshaft and then install the bearings into the block. See to it that no oil gets on the part where the ladder frame meets the body, as it will weaken the RTV seal. Clean, dry and examine the bearing cap bolt holes before you oil the bearings and journals. First, add the short main bearings to the main bearing cap so that their tabs are inside each slot, then fasten the bearing cap to the engine block. Carefully clean and dry the threads of the bolts before putting them in only loosely. For proper alignment, turn the crankshaft to where the number 4 piston is at TDC, move the crankshaft to the rear as far as it goes, then forward to its limit and hold it with a wedged tool against the rear counterweight and cylinder block. Based on the type of bolt heads, find out the correct torque for those bolts since each set of main bolts may require a different torque. If the bolt heads correspond to the correct type, turn them three times: first, use 15 Nm (11 ft. lbs.), then try 27 Nm (20 ft. lbs.), then add 45° more rotation. If it does not match, tighten them up to 15 Nm (11 ft. lbs.) first, then move it up to 45 Nm (33 ft. lbs.) and finally rotate another 45°. Take away the wedge tool and measure the turning torque of the crankshaft. It should be no more than 5.6 Nm (50 in. lbs.). Place the connecting rod caps and
Rod Bearings in their places and avoid using the connecting rod bolts from before. After installing them, tighten them to 20 Nm + 90° (15 ft. lbs.). Put in the ladder frame assembly, install the balance shaft module, then the crankshaft position sensor and tighten the bolt. If the cylinder head was taken out, install it followed by the front crankshaft sprocket,
Timing Chain, timing chain cover up front and the oil feed. Remove the rear and front seals, insert the engine mount bracket and add the crankshaft dampener. Secure the water pump pulley, pull out the engine from the stand and put in the engine lift chain. Fit the new rear oil seal and the drive plate/flex plate, tightening the bolts to 95.4 Nm (70 ft. lbs.). Bolt on the transaxle to the engine, giving it a secure fit with 101 Nm (75 ft. lbs.) of torque at each bellhousing bolt and install the engine assembly. After that, change the
Oil Filter, fill it up with oil, put in the coolant, start up the motor to look for leaks and put the engine cover back on.