Servicing and repairing a brake rotor can be done by refacing it when the rotor is warped, deeply scored or the brakes report roughness or a pulsating pedal, but generally not with each pad replacement. Make sure you use a hub-mounted on-car brake lathe to correct the alignment and runout, because it trues the rotor to the hub and the vehicle's bearings. Every rotor should show its minimum allowable thickness marking on its un-machined side or on the hat section and you should not machine past this level. Since dirt, rust and chips on the rotor face and hub adapters can harm the lathe, clean them before the lathe is put in and adjust them according to the manufacturer's instructions. You should machine both sides of the rotor together to prevent them from being cut differently, so that the tolerances and thickness limits are met. To take off the front brake rotor, lift the car, take off the front tire and wheel, remove the caliper, take away the retaining clips and simply draw the rotor off the mounting studs. Removing the rear brake rotor also involves raising the vehicle, removing the rear tire and wheel assembly, taking off the caliper assembly, taking out any clips and simply tugging the rotor off the wheel studs. Begin by placing the front brake rotor over the studs attached to the hub, followed by the
Brake Caliper, the wheel and tire assembly, 135 Nm (100 ft. lbs.) tightening of wheel mounting nuts, lowering the vehicle and finally pumping the brake pedal. Inspect the disc and parking brake shoes for the rear brake rotor before installing it, then attach the rotor to the studs on the hub, install the rear disc brake caliper, set the tire and wheel assembly in place, tighten the wheel nuts to 135 Nm (100 ft. lbs.), adjust the brake shoe clearance, lower the vehicle and pump the brake pedal to set the brake shoes.