First, lift the vehicle and support it on jack stands, remove the tire and wheel and hold onto the valve stem cap and its seal while you do this so no contamination occurs. Replacing the nickel-plated brass core in the aluminum valve stem is important to stop corrosion inside the valve. Take the tire off the wheel gently, not using the Bead Breaker in the area of the sensor and positioning the dismounting/mounting tool at the valve stem with an angle of ±10°. With pressure on the metal valve stem so you don't bend the antenna strap, detach the sensor nut, then take out the sensor from within the wheel. After you remove the existing sensor, be sure to change the washer and seal at the base of the sensor valve stem before installing it back. Make the area around the sensor/valve stem mounting hole in the wheel (5) clean and check that it's not damaged. As you pass the sensor through the wheel, keep pressing at the back of the metal valve stem and point the side with the potted part of the sensor down toward the hub. Place the sensor nut (with washer already pressed in) (3) by hand where its gyro needs to go, then lightly push down the sensor housing (2) into the wheel while tightening the nut to 6.5 Nm (58 inch lbs.). Watch the amount of torque applied, because too much pressure may separate the sensors. When using a rotating wheel tire changer, set the sensor valve stem (2) about 210° from the changer's head, while for rotating tool tire changers, keep the valve stem out of the way of the lower bead breaker. After placing the tires, measure the air pressure using the sticker on the supporting side of the tire and replace the original style valve stem cap. Gently put the tire and wheel back on the vehicle, lower it and drive continuously above 20 mph (32 km/h) for five minutes to give the system time to identify the sensor and correct errors. When sensors cannot be trained, they must be tested.