Press down on the secondary chain tensioner piston so that it is flush with the tensioner body, then pull back the ratchet pawl against its spring through the access hole on the tensioner's side. Once the pawl is held back, move the ratchet part about 2 mm away from the tensioner body and place Special Tool 8514 lock pin into the hole on the front of the tensioner. Slowly open the vise so the piston spring helps hold the lock pin in place. Put the primary chain tensioner in front of the oil pump and bolt the lower two holes in the tensioner, tightening them to 28 Nm (250 in. lbs.). Install the correct chain tensioner arm on the right with a Torx bolt, making sure it is at 28 Nm (250 in. lbs., then secure the left side chain guide with bolts set at 28 Nm (250 in. lbs.). After that, add the left side chain tensioner arm to the frame using a Torx bolt and tighten it to 28 Nm (250 in. lbs.). Attach the right side chain guide the same way and tighten it to the same torque. Put both secondary chains on the idler sprocket, making sure that by the hole on top of the sprocket the two plated links are visible and position Special Tool 8429 to keep the chains in position. Put the primary chain double plated links beside the timing mark at 12 o'clock on the idler sprocket and place the single plated link next to the timing mark at 6 o'clock on the crankshaft sprocket. Add clean engine oil to the idler shaft and bushings, put the chains, crankshaft sprocket and idler sprocket together, lead both secondary chains through the openings in the block and cylinder head and ensure they stay tight by putting a strap around them. Put the timing mark on the idler sprocket gear in line with the one on the counterbalance shaft drive gear, fully push the idler sprocket into place, grease the washer with oil and secure the assembly with a tightening of 34 Nm (25 ft. lbs.) retaining bolt. Move the camshafts around slightly so that the "L" dot on the left camshaft sprocket matches the plated link on the chain and the same happens with the "R" dot on the sprocket on the right. Wipe away any oil that might be on the camshaft sprocket bolt to stop over-torque and then set up the camshaft sprockets without tightening the bolts yet. Check that the pins on the links link up with the marks on all sprockets and that the 12 o'clock mark on the "V6" sprockets matches the bottom-center position, so the plate is installed properly. Attach both adjuster tensioners and fasten their bolts to 28 Nm (250 in. lbs.) and remember that there is only one type of left/right secondary chain tensioner. Take out all locking pins from the tensioners and refrain from manually extending the ratchet so you do not over-tension the chains. Screw the bolts on the left and right camshaft sprockets to 122 Nm (90 ft. lbs.) using Special Tool 6958 and Spanner with Adaptor Pins 8346. Do two complete turns of the engine and check that the timing marks are all in the proper spots: the primary chain idler sprocket dot at 12 o'clock, the primary chain crankshaft sprocket dot at 6 o'clock, the V6 marks on the secondary chain camshaft sprockets at 12 o'clock and the counterbalancer shaft drive gear dot line up with the idler sprocket gear dot. Lubricate each chain with engine oil and check the end play of the idler gear to make sure it measures 0.10 - 0.25 mm (0.004 - 0.010 in.). If it's not within limits, replace the idler gear. Add the timing chain cover and crankshaft damper and then attach the cylinder head covers, filling the threaded hole with sealant to block leaks in the cylinder head. Apply Mopar Thread Sealant with Teflon onto the large threaded access plug, fit into the right cylinder head and tighten to 81 Nm (60 ft. lbs.). Later on, add the oil fill housing, plug in the access point to the left cylinder head, add the power steering pump, fill the coolant system and join the negative cable to the battery.