Before starting to work on the camshaft, pull off the cylinder head cover,
Camshaft Position Sensor and the camshaft target magnet and afterward, take off the
Timing Belt. After that, remove the sprockets and the cover at the rear of the timing belt. Each bearing cap should be marked for its position and the outside ones have to be removed first. Use the exact sequence for loose removal of the camshaft bearing cap fasteners, separating one camshaft at a time, since cams should not be switched due to difference in the width and space of the cam bearing area on cam 6. Figuring out the camshafts first, pull them out after they are exposed on the head. If you take out the
Rocker Arms, keep them labeled to put them back in their proper positions. Clean the camshaft using the chosen solvent and check the condition of the camshaft bearing journals. If there is binding, examine the cylinder head for harm and examine the oil holes to confirm they are unblocked. Look for any wear or damage on the cam lobe and bearings and replace the camshaft when there's a defect. Take the actual camshaft corrosion with a standard of 0.0254 mm and maximum limit at 0.254 mm; hey, change the camshaft when worn excessively. During camshaft installation, make sure the cylinder with the piston at top dead center is not selected. After lubricating the bearing journals, the rocker arms and the camshaft lobes, set each rocker arm in its proper original place if it is being used again. Put the camshafts into the cylinder head bearing journals and put on the bearing caps, both using the right-left order and tightening each to 12 Nm (105 inch lbs.). Coat the No. 1 and No. 6 bearing ends with Mopar Gasket Maker, put them in their holes, fasten up and tighten the fasteners to 28 Nm (250 inch lbs.). Installing the bearings comes before putting in the seals. After that, add the oil seals on the camshafts, fit the target magnet for the camshaft, place the position sensor and secure the cylinder head cover, rear timing belt cover and belt.