In order to replace and remove the crankshaft one should remove the engine assembly of the car, then to remove the crankshaft rear oil seal and flex plate. It should then be ensured that the engine is put on a repair stand and that the oil must be drained out of the engine along with the
Oil Filter. This should be followed by removal of an
Oil Pan,
Timing Belt covers, timing belt, oil pump, and balance shafts with housing assembly. The caps on the connecting rods should be marked with permanent ink or paint marker avoiding to use a number stamp or punch to ensure that no damage occurs. The connecting rod pinholed and all other perforating bolts and caps are to be removed without harming the fracture rod and cap metal work and the connecting rod bolts are not to be reused. Every bedplate bolt in the engine block should be loosened and also the bedplate should be tapped off of the dowel pins but not pried in one direction otherwise you will have them off center. The crankshaft can be removed then without damaging the main bearings or journals. The mounting screws of the target ring are to be loosened and disregarded after that, the target ring is to be taken off the crankshaft. The crankshaft journals must be examined to note excessive wear, taper and scoring and the journal grinding should not be over 0.305 mm (0.012 inch) under standard journal diameter, and thrust faces of No.3 main bearings marked should not be ground. Oil holes are to be ground, and rough edges should be taken out, and finally all the passages trimmed. During installation the main bearing shells are to be installed with the lubrication groove on the cylinder block and the oil holes in the bearing and the cylinder block check with each other and bearing tabs are to seat in place. One has to be vigilant enough not to get oil on the bedplate mating surface. Prior to applying the crankshaft the bearings and journals must be oiled, only the prescribed anaerobic sealant need be used on the bedplate. The cylinder block should be covered with a Mopar Bed Plate Sealant (in the form of a bead 1.5 to 2.0 mm (0.059 to 0.078 inch) thick). The lower main bearings are to be pushed into the main bearing cap/bedplate (with the bearing tabs to be seated) after which the main bearing/bedplate is to be put into the engine block. The bolts should be oiled at the thread points, and the bolts of the bedplate main bearing to engine block should be mounted on finger tight and tighten fix until the bedplate touches the cylinder block. The best way to guarantee that the thrust bearings line up is by rotating the crankshaft until the number 4
Piston reaches TDC and is slid back toward the
Flywheel and front and back until it reaches its extreme positions with a tool slotted between the rear of the cylinder block and the rear crankshaft counterweight forcing the crankshaft to the frontward position. The order to tighten bolts should be followed with 41 Nm (30 ft. lbs.) and tightened again to the same torque but with 1/4 turn. Next the main bearing bedplate to engine block bolts are to be similarly torqued, in turn, to 28 Nm (20 ft. lbs.). Once installed crankshaft turning torque must be measured and it must not be more than 5.6 Nm (50 inch lbs.). The connecting
Rod Bearings and connect rod caps must be fitted and connecting rod bolts must be torqued to 27Nm (20ft. lbs.) + 1/4 turn. Install balance shafts and housing assembly, oil pump and pickup tube, timing belt rear cover, timing belt, and timing belt front covers then the engine support bracket and oil pan, oil filter and the crankshaft rear oil seal (the oil pump bolt should be torqued to 95 Nm (70 ft. lbs.) after Mopar Lock & Seal Adhesive has been applied to the brake lines and oil-pan to oil filter studs). Lastly the engine assembly is to be installed.