First, remove the whole engine assembly from the car and then part the engine from the transaxle. After that, take out the flex plate and the crankshaft rear oil seal and carefully mount the engine on a repair stand. After removing the engine oil and replacing the
Oil Filter, also remove the
Oil Pan,
Timing Belt covers, timing belt, oil pump and balance shafts with their housing assembly. Make sure all bedplate bolts from the engine block are taken out, then use a soft hammer to tap the bedplate loose from the dowel pins, keeping the job even on all sides. It is recommended to remove the bedplate equally on both sides to safeguard the dowel pins and thrust bearing and let the crankshaft be lifted out safely. Visually check the crankshaft journals, as excessive wear, taper or scoring should not be present. Also, tapers or out of round must be less than 0.025 mm (0.001 inch) and journal grinding should not go past 0.305 mm (0.012 inch) from the standard journal diameter. Polishing the front faces of the No. 3 main bearing is forbidden and it's important not to scratch either the crank pin or the bearings. Work on the outside surfaces to eliminate rough areas, then clean up the oil holes and the whole inside, so the crankshaft's polish stays aligned with its usual rotation. Bearing halves for the upper and lower No. 3 unit have flanges for thrusts and cannot be used in another bearing unit. Clean and apply oil to bearing cap bolts before installing and it is important to have the bearings available in standard and smaller sizes: 0.016 mm, 0.032 mm and 0.250 mm, making sure not to use undersized bearings that decrease clearance below needs. To install, put the main bearing shells into the cylinder block, lining up the grooves so that all oil holes are in line and the bearing tabs seat up correctly. Avoid putting oil on the surface between the bedplate and piston, oil the bearings and journals and use only the told anaerobic sealer to attach the crankshaft to the bedplate. After applying a small bead of Bed Plate Sealant, fit main bearing caps, install lower bearings and verify that bearing tabs line up well. Following oiling, place the main bearing or bedplate into the engine block, put the bolts in with your fingers and then tighten them until the bedplate presses against the cylinder block. To make sure the thrust bearings are perfectly aligned, rotate the crankshaft so number 4 piston is at TDC, move the crankshaft rearward and forward to its limits, wedge a tool between the rear of the cylinder block and the rear crankshaft counterweight and tighten bolts in sequence to a torque of 41 Nm (30 ft. lbs.). Get rid of the wedge tool, then tighten the bolts to 41 Nm (30 ft. lbs.) and give them one more 1/4 turn. Screw the main bearing bedplate onto the engine block bolts and torque each to 28 Nm (20 ft. lbs.) in order. After all is installed, set the crankshaft turning torque to a maximum of 5.6 Nm (50 in. lbs.), then assemble the balance shafts and housing, oil pump, timing belt rear cover, timing belt, timing belt front covers, engine support bracket, oil pan, oil filter, crankshaft rear oil seal and flex plate. Apply Mopar Lock & Seal Adhesive to the bolt threads and tighten them all to a torque of 95 Nm (70 ft. lbs.). After everything is assembled, bolt on the transaxle using 101 Nm (76 ft. lbs.) of torque and secure the engine assembly again.