Before handling the fluid or filter, raise and steady the car on safety stands and put a large shallow pan under the transmission fluid pan. Take out the bolts at the front and sides of the pan to the transmission, loosen those at the rear and remove the front part of the pan to collect the fluid. With the pan still level, get rid of any remaining bolts and lower the car far enough away so you can pour any extra fluid into the drain pan. After that, remove the screw that holds the main oil filter (1) to the valve body, take out the filter and pour the fluid into the drain pan. Examine the seal in the oil filter; if it is not installed properly or deteriorated, throw it away, but if it's intact and in good shape, you can reset it. When you need to replace filter 2, use the mentioned wrench to unroll the filter. Throw away the old transmission fluid and filters the right way. At the end of inspection, check the magnetic target for heavy buildup and the bottom of the pan for a light covering of clutch particles, seeing it's normal unless the vehicle slips or shifts late. Rinse the pan and the magnet with a cleaner and chop off the old gasket material around the transmission case and pan using a gasket scraper. Following installation, use the proper tool to make sure the primary oil filters seal is all the way into the oil pump inlet bore. Place the new filter in the valve body and into the oil pump, then use a screw to secure it with 4.5 Nm (40 inch lbs.) of torque. Should you need to, snap the new cooler return filter (2) into place and tighten it to 14.12 Nm (125 inch lbs.). Add a line of Mopar(R) RTV sealant along the sealing surface in the case, set the pan in place and screw on the bolts to 11.8 Nm (105 inch lbs.). After that, lower the vehicle and add Mopar(R) ATF +4 to the transmission.