Work on each connecting rod set, joining them one by one and paying attention to the unmarked bearing caps, marking each when it's taken off for correct assembly later. Don't use a punch to mark the rods and make sure you don't scratch the surfaces on where the fractured rod and cap meet, because this can damage the engine. Put the bearing shells on the rods so that the tangs slide into the machined holes and check that the hole in the upper bearing is on the same side as the squirt hole in the rod. The maximum taper allowable on a crankshaft journal is 0.015 mm (0.0006 in.), while the out-of-round tolerance is 0.010 mm (0.0004 in.). The bearings are supplied smaller than required by 0.001 inch or 0.0025 inch and this is added during installation. It is necessary to install two bearings of the same age in each location and never mix old with new or file the rods and bearing caps. For main bearing and connecting rod bearing clearance, put some plastigage in place and find the clearance standards in the engine handbook. If the threads of your connecting rod bearing cap bolts look stretched, replace the bolts. Rod cap bolts are held simply by a mild press and to remove them, carefully hammer out the bolt head with a punch to avoid damaging the rod cap. Press a scale against the threads; if some places on the threads are empty, change the bolt immediately. First, grease the threads with oil, put bolts in by hand and sync the bolts by alternately tightening them to specification. First, use a dial indicator on a fixed part of the engine and locate the dial on the cap of the connecting rod. Set the dial to zero, lower the connecting rod fully, read the indicator and compare the result to the listed specs, repeating this for every rod and as you rotate the crankshaft for access.